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An old Hindu scripture states that “in a hundred ages of the Gods” the Himalaya cannot be explored fully. So, we mere mortals have to make do with most of our time. As matter of fact, the Himalaya stetches across seven nations – Afghanistan, Bhutan, China, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet Autonomous Region of China, but treasuring 10 of the 14 highest peaks in the world, Nepal remains her true heartland.
In the 1950s, when Nepal opened her doors to international tourism, mountaineers and explorers quickly launched their numerous expeditions to summit the Himalaya, and in subsequent years to discover the mythical abdominal creature, Yeti, among the high mountain terrains. Soon, the Himalaya would be far more accessible to casual walkers and outdoor enthusiasts looking to traverse along the foothills of the great mountains, kick starting the culture of trekking. Over the years, the campsites have given ways to teahouses and to luxury lodges, and travellers can now enjoy comforts of hot showers, internet (be it really slow), and even the pleasures of pastas and pizzas.
With so many good trekking routes to do in Nepal, and each one with its own wonderful landscape and natural scenery, indigenous cultures and populations sustaining a living, and each carrying immense religious and historical significances, no doubt, we all need a trekking guide to the Himalaya.
The Annapurna Himal (massif) is regarded by many, as one of Himalaya's finest moment - an epic natural geography that should be in everyone’s travel list. The sheer variety of trails, stupendous high mountain panoramas and uniquely captivating cultural interests, make for Annapurna’s undeniable rank as one of the world’s best trekking countries.
Bordered by the Kali Gandaki Gorge to the west and the Marshyangdi River to the north and east, the titanic massif features one peak over 8,000 meters, thirteen peaks over 7,000 meters and sixteen more over 6,000 meters, all within a 55-kilometre (34 miles) stretch. And, if that were not enough, the lowlands are as low as tropical 600 meters (1,960ft) and the highest pass is at the artic 5,416 meters (17,770ft), offering trekkers to pass fertile foothills, farms and forests before reaching glaciers and high mountains. Whether you are at the foothills or at the high valleys, the mountains are spectacularly within an eyeshot, allowing the region to appeal to all levels of experience and ability looking to enjoy the abundance sceneries of the stunning Annapurna.
Let’s start with the relatively easy gentle trek along the beautiful Annapurna foothills, savouring the rich cultural villages of Gurung and Ghale communities, their lush terraced farmlands and busy locals going about their daily chores, working the land and sustaining a living. Venturing a little higher, the Annapurna Sanctuary is truly, the heartland of this breath-taking geographical wonderland. Trekking between cosy teahouses, dense forests and cascading water channels, this classic trek to the southern Annapurna Base Camp is relatively a low altitude excursion by Himalayan standards and explores the hidden amphitheatre of ice and rocks encircled by some of the world’s highest peaks. The Annapurna Circuit is easily one of the great trails of Nepal, for those experienced trekkers looking for a tougher challenge. Circumnavigating the Annapurna Himal (massif) takes about 14-21 days, covering a distance of about 160-230 km (100-145miles), depending on where we begin or end the trek. The Annapurna Circuit commonly follows the Marshyangdi River upstream alongside tropical villages of Lamjung to the river valleys of Manang and the high pass at Thorong La (5,416m/17,770ft), before descending over to the drylands of Mustang and the deep gorges of Kali Gandaki. This truly is a once in a lifetime experience. The frozen lakes of Tilicho Tal (4,919m/16,318ft) and Kicho Tal (4,600m/15,092ft), furthermore, offer excellent extended trips from Manang.
Likewise, when a route has as many names as “The Poon Hill Trek” or “Ghorepani Trek” or “Annapurna Panorama Trek”, you know it has just as many admirers. The short hike to the viewpoint at Poon Hill (3,193m/10,475ft) will take between 3-5 days only, but more impressively it offers an unforgettable chance to catch the sun rise over the Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs for that unforgettable moment in the Himalayas. Mardi Himal Base Camp (4,500m/14,763ft) and Khopra Danda treks are impressive alternate options from the southern ridges of Annapurna, and have gained excellent popularities recently. From sun-tropical lush fields to high artic plateaus, from rain deprived drylands to mighty river valleys, the diverse landscape of the Annapurna is only rivalled by her multi ethnic populations. With new teahouses and accommodations being available on routes where only camping treks were possible, the best days of trekking in Annapurna are for sure, in the days ahead.
Known locally as “Khumbu”, the home of Mount Everest (Sagarmatha, her Nepali name), is among the top wish list of many trekkers and adventure travellers who are keen to stand on the foot of the world’s highest mountains. Evermore so, ‘Everest’ is associated with the expression ‘pushing oneself to the best of their limit’, and the heady region lives up to this iconic reputation. The physiological challenge presented by the high altitudes are unmatched anywhere else in the world.
Located at north-eastern Nepal, the Khumbu Region is populated by hard-working indigenous ethnics of Kulung, Kirat Rai and Chettri in the lower regions, and by Sherpas and their Tibetan-Buddhist cultures in the high mountains. Birthplace to mountaineering legends and record-holders, and to countless accounts of inspirational narratives, historic and folklore - Everest serves an unparalleled opportunity to observe the coarse daily chores undertaken to sustain lives in some of the world’s most uninhabitable conditions. The majestic Mahalangur Himalayan range take centre stage, and counts Everest (8,848m/29,029ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8,481m/27,8383ft), Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,864ft), Gyachung Kang (7,952m/26,089ft), Pumo Ri (7,161m/23,949ft) and Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,349ft) as few of the region’s famous peaks - Khumbu is, in all probability, where all trekkers are initially attracted.
The altitude is the ultimate challenge in Everest, and designing a route with plenty of acclimatisation is not just the key to a successful completion but also offers ample chance to explore this wonderous Sherpaland fondly known as the ‘roof of the world’. The ever-popular Everest Base Camp trek to the famed campsite (5,364m/17,596m) follows the classic route undertaken by many historic expeditions to summit Mount Everest. And along the way, we have option to visit the base camp of the iconic Ama Dablam (4,576m/15,013ft), just a half a day side trip from the village of Pangboche. For many people who are concerned about the endurance needed, the picturesque bed of the Ama Dablam Base Camp, which was once used as an unauthorised airstrip to support mountaineering expeditions, is high enough – a worthwhile route and an accomplishment in itself. Aside from the base camps, Khumbu also boasts of the world’s highest freshwater reservoirs, the Gokyo Lakes, a collection of six main lakes and thirteen smaller lakes, sitting at an altitude between 4,700-5,000 meters (15,400-16,400 feet). Those mesmerising Himalayan photos of pristine turquois lakes are most likely that of the Gokyo Lakes, and they offer a perfect alternate away from the popular Everest Base Camp route. For those looking for lower altitude hikes, treks to the ancient villages of Thame (3,820m/11,290ft), Khumjung (3,790m/12,430ft), Phortse (3,840m/12,599ft) and Pangboche (3,985m/12,687ft) provide excellent opportunities to experience the local culture and gain insights into the humble mountain lives, all within an eye shot of the highest summits of the world. For even shorter trips, Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,290ft, the bustling capital of Khumbu, or a little further up, the holy Dawa Choling Gumpa (monastery) of Tengboche (3,867m/12,687ft) allows to soak in the best of the trekking culture Khumbu has to offer. The amazing viewpoint from Kala Patthar (5,545m/18,192ft) presents Mount Everest and her surrounding peaks at their closest, while the panorama atop Gokyo Ri (5,360m/17,585ft) is perhaps unrivalled by any other locales in the Himalayas. Of course, part of the thrill of our Everest adventure has to be the tiny twin-propellor airplane ride to the unforgettable airstrip at Lukla (2,845m/9,334ft), the gateway to Everest and starting point of our treks. Or you can skip the plane ride and do the original trek the British Expedition Team took in 1953 by starting at the much lower Solukhumbu regions (Mid-Hills of Everest). This trek will be longer, the climbs are tougher but the trails will be quieter and you do get to enjoy the lower regions of Khumbu.
The sacred valleys of Langtang and Gosainkund epitomizes the very magical and mystical magnetism the Himalayas profoundly embellishes. For decades, the supernatural Langtang region has been on the bucket lists of many trekkers who find the lure of the breath-taking Himalayan splendours meeting the deep religious and cultural prominences of the region, an exclusive opportunity not to be missed.
There are no 8,000-meter peaks here, but Langtang Lirung (7,227m/23,710ft) and Langtang Ri (7,205m/23,638ft) rises above hosts of neighbouring peaks that extends all the way across the border to Tibet. On the foothills of Langtang Lirung, surrounded by the amphitheatre of glaciers and ice, the centuries old Buddhist monastery of Kyangjin Gompa (3,830m/12,565ft) has remained a sanctuary for Tibetan monks or any disciples seeking spiritual enlightenments, and culminates the gorgeous Langtang Valley. Across the Langtang Khola (river), Gosainkund locales the sacred alpine freshwater oligotrophic lakes that are revered by Vedic Hinduism as a water reservoir that was sourced by Lord Shiva himself. Worshipped as the abode of Lord Shiva and his wife Gauri, Gosaikund Lakes (4,380m/14,370ft) see large numbers of Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims who seek to purify themselves by taking a holy bath in the artic lakes. But what makes Langtang special are, in fact, the Tamang and Tibetan indigenous communities who are said to be the earliest settlers in Nepal, migrating from Tibeto-Burma. These simple and friendly communities still practice their ancient animistic based religion, and traditional cultures and customs that are seldom seen elsewhere in Nepal.
The trekking regions of Langtang can basically be divide into four parts. The Tamang Heritage Trial passes through quaint villages of Tamang nestled between Langtang Himal and Ganesh Himal. The trek highlights the colourful traditions and unique rituals inspired by the Bon Lamaism, a religious fusion of Shamanism and Buddhism, practiced by the Tamangs. The Heritage trail eminently suits those looking to discover ancient lifestyles, cultures and customs, other than the usual glittering mountain sceneries and stunning vistas. The beautiful Langtang Valley trek traverses into the wide river valley and to the upper highlands of this spectacular Himalayan utopia and back. Apart from Kyangjin Gompa, we have the options to explore further up the valley to the shrines of Langshisa Kharka (4,060m/13,320ft) or even summit the trekkable peaks of Tserko Ri (4,984m/16,352ft) or Kyangjin Ri (4,400m/14,435ft). A vast wall of peaks lies between the valley and Tibet, and to our south the lesser-known peaks of Dorje Himal and Kagnja La Himal offer demanding viewpoints. The high and wild amphitheatre of Gosaikund Trek and over the high pass of Laurebina La (4,610m/15,125ft) takes us through some of Nepal’s most rugged country, a testimony to the belief that Lord Shiva will not let anyone who wishes to venture in his domain without some penance. Neighbouring north to the Kathmandu Valley, the highland villages of Helambu Valley Trek are home to the Hyolmo people, of Sino-Tibetan family. Their rich Sherpa cultures, ancient monasteries, serene stupas and Tibetan horns immensely accentuate the cultural walk along excellent ridge lines littered with lush sub-tropical forests, terraced farmlands, filled with birds, langurs and beautiful flowers. All along the trail, superb views of the Greater Himalaya stay to our north and the forested hills to the south.
Trekkers with short time can enjoy the Langtang Valley trek, or combine that with the Tamang Heritage Trail in the beginning for additional cultural limelight. Combining Langtang Valley with the sacred lakes of Gosaikund is very advisable and allows us to soak in the best of the Himalayan experience with some mystical wonders. For those with more than three weeks, can mix Langtang, Gosaikund and Helambu Valley to their trek for an adventurous three-part journey, or do all four parts for that epic Himalayan trekking experience.
The twin-peaked Manaslu , the eight highest mountain at 8,163 meters (26,718 feet), gets her name from the ancient Sanskrit philosophy “Manasa” which refers to “intellect” or “mental understandings” that separates humans from animals. Authentic to its name, the off-beat Manaslu offers spectacular mountain scenery, intimate encounters with almost medieval and isolated lifestyles, and takes us from wild river valley to an epic high pass – a journey that truly nourishes and enriches our neuroplasticity.
Close to the Tibetan border, the region is dominated by the towering peaks of Manaslu, Himalchuli (7,893m/25,895ft), Ngadi Chuli (7,871m/25,823ft), Shringi Himal (7,161m/23,494ft), Ganesh II (7,118m/23,353ft), and Saula Peak (6,235m/20,456ft), amongst many. Dotted with attractive Tibetan Buddhist villages, the trek follows the ancient salt trading route established by early traders who carried salts and wools from the dry plateaus of Tibet over the Himalayan pass for the crops and woods of the lush Gorkha valleys. Away from the crowds of Everest and Annapurna, the tourist infrastructures at Manaslu are still not developed to the same levels, allowing the region to still stay fairly unspoilt and remote for that classic Himalayan trekking experience.
The Manaslu Circuit is quickly gaining the allure of ‘one of the best treks of the world’ with a superb route that circumnavigates the majestic Mansari Himal (Manaslu Massif) through remote trails and pristine country. The circuit commences along the deep gorges of Gorkha valleys, intensifying with sublime views of the Greater Himalaya as we venture closer to the Tibetan borders and the forgotten villages of the high plateaus, before the crossing of the high pass at Larkya La (5,160m/16,929ft) arrives with profound sense of achievements. The trek successfully culminates at the foothills of the breath-taking Annapurna for that once-is-not-enough holiday experience. Make no mistake, the Manaslu Circuit can be challenging at times, but the highlights outweigh the efforts necessary. We have excellent options for acclimatisation and explorations, with arduous one-day excursions to Manaslu Base Camp (4,400m/14,435ft) and to the Tibetan border passes of Gyala Pass (5,375m/17,634ft) or moderate hikes to the hidden glacial freshwater lake of Birendra Tal (3,637m/11,932ft) or the secluded Pungyen Monastery with formidable views. There are typical Nepali villages and farmland of mixed ethnicity of Gurung, Ghale and Karki at the lower Buddhi Gandaki valleys that are far from the frantic pace of life we are accustomed to. And closer to Tibet, the isolated communities of Bhotias, native to the Himalayan Belt, speaks a unique western-Tibetan dialect and take shelters in tiny flat-roofed stone walled houses that share the ground floor with domesticated animals, to capture heat, while the families live on the floor above. Travelling through Manaslu is like discovering a time capsule to a lost paradise - a sacred beyul that must be seen to believe it.
Beyond, in the rain shadow of the gigantic mountain massifs of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri lies the remote Kingdom of Lho, fondly known as Mustang. A surreal desert landscape of multi-coloured rock formations, high barren cliffs with mysterious cave dwellings, undisturbed villages with age-old culture and practices, surrounded by towering snow-capped Himalayan peaks that delivers a unique contrast not found elsewhere in Nepal.
‘The Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang’ has long been shrouded in mystery and a muse for early European explorers in search of Shangri-La, a fabled “beyul” cut-off from the world. A trek here is centred as much on the rich cultural legacy of the Lhobas, the ethnic residents of Lho, as it does the spectacular scenery. There are distinct changes here, not only in topography, but in the culture, customs and lifestyle as well. Settlements are more scattered, smaller and basic. Remnants of pre-Buddhism, Bon religion, and its Shamanistic and animistic influences are still practiced, mixed with the Shakya-Pa school of early Tibetan Buddhism. Due to the lack of rain and fertile soils, Lhobas have resourcefully sustained life by cultivating sheltered plots for agriculture, creating an invitational oasis of green life against the stark contrasting barren, water-parched terrain. One of the most fascinating features of Mustang is the thousands of ancient cave dwellings, theorized to date back around 8 - 10,000 BC, carved into cliff faces, some of which looks completely inaccessible and whose origins remain a mystery till date. Perhaps to the Neolithic era when Mustang was hypothesized to be a much greener land with much more water and plentiful game to hunt.
One for a lifetime, the magnificent Mustang offers one of the most unique destinations in the planet and comes with a hefty permit fee. For those following the footsteps of the early Tibetologist, Mustang is a truly rewarding journey.
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