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TR-MFP
Challenging
16 days / 15 nights
12 days / 11 nights
4,280 meters/ 14,042 feet, Chogo La high pass, Day 10
Hotels, Teahouses
from US$ 2800 per person
Our Mustang Fastpack adventure centres on 10 exciting days exploring the “Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang”. Lying in the rain shadow of the lush Himalaya, Mustang is a place unlike any other Himalayan destinations in Nepal. Barren and dried, desert-like appearances that resemble the arid highlands of Tibet. So, are the distinct Tibetan heritages the Lhobas, the ethnic residents, celebrate. A trek here is centred as much on the rich cultural legacy as it does on the rugged but beautiful mountain landscapes.
Outside worlds were first introduced to Mustang after explorers such as British Tibetologist Professor David Snellgrove, Italian orientalist Guiseppe Tucci and French ethnologist Michel Peissel published about their visit to an ancient kingdom of the Himalaya, a fabled utopia cut-off from the world, in the 1950’s. Soon thereafter, Mustang would remain restricted for her close political and strategical proximity to the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, before finally opening her doors to foreign travellers in March 1992. This has led to Mustang retaining her old realms and authentic cultures for centuries, undisturbed and hidden away from modern influences.
There are distinct changes here,
not only in topography, but in the culture, customs and lifestyle of the
Lhobas, people of Lho, too. Settlements are more scattered, smaller and basic.
Remnants of pre-Buddhism, Bon religion, and its Shamanistic and animistic
influences are still practiced, mixed with the Shakya-Pa school of early
Tibetan Buddhism. Because of the lack of rain and fertile soils, Lhobas have
resourcefully sustained life by cultivating sheltered plots for agriculture,
creating an invitational oasis of green life against the stark contrasting
barren, water-parched terrain.
One of the most fascinating features of Mustang is the thousands of ancient cave dwellings carved into cliff faces, some of which looks completely inaccessible and whose origins remain a mystery till date. Recent theories suggest that they may date back to 8 - 10,000 BC, to the Neolithic era when Mustang was hypothesized to be a much greener land with much more water and plentiful game to hunt.
One for a lifetime, the magnificent Mustang trek includes several long walking days, through substantial villages, over numerous high passes, along the established trail of the historic salt trading route that commercialized Tibet, Nepal and all the way to India. Our trek culminates at the fantastic walled city of Lo Manthang, the ancient capital of Mustang and the undoubted highlight of the entire trek. The vast Mustang terrain is striking, with deep ravines and lofty rock formations flanked by daunting snow-capped Himalayan peaks. And where riverbeds still possess fossilised ammonites from Jurassic periods, the fabled Kingdom of Mustang, once forbidden, is a journey back in time to the lost world of a forgotten Himalayan tribe.
What can we expect – trip overview and highlights.
One for a lifetime, the magnificent Mustang trek includes several long walking days, through substantial villages, over numerous high passes, along the established trail of the historic salt trading route that commercialized Tibet, Nepal and all the way to India. A sensational flight up ‘the deepest gorge in the world’ between the towering Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Himal (massif), lands us at Jomsom, a small commercial town sitting in an arid rain-shaded valley. From here, we begin our walk northbound along the Kali Gandaki gorge, following the footsteps of the historic salt trade route into Tibet. There are staggering gorges, multi-coloured cliffs and formidable rock formations sculpted by centuries of gushing Himalayan dry wind. The remote semi-desert high valleys are adorned with lonely Chortens (Tibetan Buddhist stupas) dedicated to elemental beings, colourful Lung-Ta (heavenly Wind Horses symbolised as high-flying prayer flags) and protective Rigsum Gonpo, a wall of three coloured stupas representing the protectors of the three realms, Manjusri (red), Avalokitesvara (white) and Vajrapani (black). Our overnights are on small and more basic settlements with labyrinth of intricate and narrow pathways that seem to arrive at similar white-washed traditional houses decorated with small windows and jagged crowns of woodpiles. Crossing over the mountain-passes of Dajori La, Nyi La and Ghami La we make our way into the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang, where we spend two wonder-filled days exploring the enticing sky caves, streets, temples and a King’s Palace. For the return, we cross the passing of Chogo La (4,280m/ 14,042ft), our highest elevations of the trek, and descend all the way back to Jomsom and a flight back to Kathmandu, where we reflect back on the superb cultural and scenic experience unlike anywhere else in Nepal.
TR-MFP
16 days / 15 nights
12 days / 11 nights
Challenging
4,280 meters/ 14,042 feet, Chogo La high pass, Day 10
Hotels, Teahouses
Flying in or out of Kathmandu
valley is an amazing experience, very much so, on a clear day. As the plane
approaches from the southern west vector, the Himalaya can be seen on the
distant north. The approach beautifully navigates between low mountains,
passing over picturesque views of small villages, terrace fields and lush
forests, before the urban city and its intrigued network of roads and concrete
buildings sprawl below us.
As you make your way through the
formalities of the immigration and custom procedures, our Office Representative
will be awaiting at the airport and assists during our hotel check in.
Hopefully the long flight has not been too exhausting for a pleasant evening.
Overnight: Four-star Hotel
Meals: Breakfast
We have an exciting morning ahead
of us as we head to the airport for a short flight to Pokhara, Nepal’s second
largest city. If the weather permits, the flight offers spectacular views of
the Himalayan ranges with the majestic Manaslu range, followed by the
impressive Annapurna massif as we fly over luscious foothills, isolated
villages and terraced farmlands. The distinct twin peaks of Machhapucharre
(Fishtail Mountain, 6,999 m/ 22,963 ft) are seemingly hard to miss as we slowly
prepare to land. On arrival, we will transfer to our hotel and have the
afternoon to our leisure.
The idyllic lakeside city of
Pokhara sits with many hidden charms and cultural interests. Of course, the
placid water of Fewa Tal (Fewa Lake) is her centrepiece and, the Annapurna
Himal and the Dhaulagiri range are the jewels over her sky. A boat ride in the
Fewa Lake is very tranquil and helps to unwind underneath the impressive views
of the mountains. The boat ride offers us a side trip to the little island of
Taal Barahi Temple, a Hindu site dedicated to Goddess Durga – the protector. An
afternoon hike to the Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), a hilltop Buddhist monument
on the southern fringe of Fewa Lake, allows for a few-hours excursion away from
the hectic city. The white dome-shaped pagoda has four statutes of Buddha from
Japan, Sri-Lanka, Thailand and Nepal overlooking the four directions, and offers
spectacular views of the mountains. The Old Pokhara Bazaar is a colourful
market selling Tibetan, Gurung, Newari and other diverse ethnical commodities
and souvenirs. The city also centres few museums dedicated to mountaineering,
natural history and the Gurkha soldiers of the region, and offers insightful
history of the area. A nice walk to Davis Falls, a waterfall with strange rock
formation and deep cut gorge, and Mahendra Cave, a limestone cave with rising
stalagmites and dropping stalactites, should provide leisurely options in
Pokhara. Or we can reserve the day for just simply relaxing by the lakeside
with a drink in our hand.
Overnight: Tourist-standard Hotel
Meals: Breakfast
The flight to Jomsom leave
Pokhara airport early in the morning for an unforgettable flying experience
through the deep Kali Gandaki gorge, as the STOL plane glides between the
towers of Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545ft), Nilgiri Central (6,940m/22,769ft) and
Nilgiri North (7,061m/23,166ft) on the east and Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,795ft)
and Tukuche Peak (6,920m/22,703ft) on the west. On landing at the sensational
tiny airstrip on the head of the Himalayan gorge, we allow ourselves a cup of
warm tea to catch our breaths and take in the stunning Himalayan panorama,
while our trek team prepares for the walk ahead. And as the freezing southerly
wind rushes down from the high-rising Annapurna massif, the warmth of the tea
cup spreads over the stunning rain-shadowed country we find ourselves admiring
over. The spiritual Vietnamese poet, Thich Nhat Hnah said it best, “You must be
completely awake in the present to enjoy the tea.”
The walk to Kagbeni is a pleasant
three-hours hike through a wide trail on a combination of sandy road and
Saligram-filled riverbed along the windy Kali Gandaki Khola (river). Heading
northbound, the easy trail let us stretch our legs and warm up our muscles for
the coming days, whilst offering ample opportunities to impress us to the
daunting rugged terrains and the high mountains of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri,
Annapurna and Tukuche that fortifies the deep Kali Gandaki valley. Dry plateaus
and barren hillsides adorned with grey, red and white chortens (Buddhist
stupas) are marked with colourful prayer flags fluttering wildly in the
Himalayan winds and constantly whip their blessed Tibetan scripts and mantras
on travellers seeking safe passages. Soon enough, we pass the quaint settlement
of Eklebhatti (2,740m/8,990ft) and stay with the Kali Gandaki Khola, all the
way to a cliff overlooking a confluence where the Kali Gandaki river meets the
Jhong Khola. Here Kagbeni (2,810m/9,219ft), a pretty Tibetan farm village,
remains as the border settlement of Lower Mustang.
Kagbeni is one of the oldest
villages in the Himalaya. Ancient alleyways and tunnels that are low and narrow
runs through the old Kagbeni and were designed to protect commuters from the
mountain winds rushing down the valley. The Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling
Monastery or better known as the ‘Red Gompa’, in the centre of the village, was
built in 1429 and very much worth a visit. You can feel the centuries in the
walls of the building and seek blessings from foregone ages. The outskirt of
the village is walled by green fields of wheat and barley fed by the intricate
irrigation canals from the Kali Gandaki river, painting a colourful contrast
against the barren geography. The uniqueness of the pre-Buddhist Bom culture of
Mustang can be found in the shrines for ‘ghost traps’ and figures of a male and
a female Kheni (Ghost Eaters) guarding the northern and southern entrances to
the village.
Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
To pass beyond Kagbeni we will
need to sign in with a special permit. Once the formalities are over, the
growing anticipation of venturing into this once forbidden Himalayan Kingdom
soon becomes a reality. A long mani wall, stacked with stone tablets inscribed
with elegant Tibetan devotional mantras, bless our traverse into the rugged but
beautiful Shangri-La, which is immediately followed by a steep climb over a
dirt road. Brightly coloured canyons, riverbeds, eroded turrets, shapely bluffs
and dry cliffs characterise the rain shaded country ahead, while a glance back
at Kagbeni and the southern skies contrast that with patches of green fields
and stunning snow-capped spires of Nilgiri Peaks. Across the valley, the
Ghilungpa Khola rushes down to meet the Kali Gandaki Khola and a trail can be
seen climbing high above heading towards Jungben La pass and to the hidden
wonders of Dolpo, another Himalayan sanctuary.
The settlement of Tangbe
(3,060m/1,040ft) soon arrives with a typical black, white and red chorten that
are found in Upper Mustang. The pretty village of the Gurung community, is
adorned with an ancient dzong (fortress), narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, an
archery ground, a green apple farm and fields of buckwheat, barley and wheat.
The dirt road continues on from the village, around the hillsides, occasionally
disturbed by local horsemen trotting gallantly or by sturdy jeeps gasping for
more air to feed the combustion engine. Across the river, Kunza Choling
Monastery or better known as Gompa Kang sits unflustered away from prying
visitors who may find the long detour to reach there a little bothersome. A
little over an hour after leaving Tangbe, we reach Chhuksang (2,980m/ 9,777ft)
where cliff walls have eroded to resemble a multi coloured ‘pipe-organ’. Anyone
fancy a rendition of J.S. Bach’s ‘Toccata and Fugue’? Continuing north, we
reach a ruined fort and pass narrow canyons cut deep on striking red cliffs
where chunks fallen from above have been punched through by the Kali Gandaki
Khola to form an interesting river tunnel. While the river struggles to find
its course through the narrow defile, our attentions are diverted to the many
sky caves carved high above the fluted red cliffs. Of these caves, the
historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later
used by hermit-monks as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet
lived in similar caves until recently). Many anthropologists believe that the
caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much
more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt. Soon, we cross over two
suspension bridges to the west bank of Kali Gandaki (now the Mustang Khola) and
begin our ascent to Tsaile on a beautiful trekking trail that sharply winds up
for about 100m/328ft.
The scattered and small village
of Tsaile (3,050m/10,007ft) is notable with simple houses and lodges that have
sheep horns and ‘zor’ (ghost traps) above their doorways to ward off evil
spirits, a practice that dates back to pre-Buddhist Bom religion. A large
prayer wheel sits south of the village with eight auspicious symbols to purify
travellers entering the settlement. The five neighbouring villages of the area
– Tsaile, Chuksang, Ghyakar, Tangbe and Tetang are home to an indigenous community
who are more culturally related to the Manangis in the east than the Lhobas in
the north.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
We start off with a climb, this
morning, over a dramatic canyon to the west of Kali Gandaki Valley. The village
of Ghyakar, field of barleys and wood of large trees can be seen across the
canyon, and behind us the panoramic views of Khatung Kang (6,484m/21,273ft),
Thorung Peak (6,144m/20,157ft), and Yakawa Kang (6,482m/21,266ft) extend over
the high-altitude desert of the Tibetan plateau. Sitting on a gorge, the
village of Ghyakar (3,562m/11,686ft) leads us though a khani (gateway entrance)
and tunnels under houses to a small village square with a washing place.
Climbing steadily on, pass the bushy vegetations, the trail is drier and arid
as we approach Dajori La (pass, 3,735m/12,254ft). The view at the pass now
includes Nilgiri Himal (massif) stretching to our south along with the
aforementioned peaks of Muktinath Himal, and a steep old trail that still
connects Tsaile and Samar. The charming village of Samar is visible with a
short descent that contour round a ridge lined with chortens. Nestled on an
orchard of poplar trees, Samar (3,660m/12,008ft) was once an inviting rest-stop
for salt traders and caravans of mule crossing over from Tibet. Later on, the
village was used by the Khampas, Tibetan warriors, as a staging post to launch
raids into Tibet. Now, the white-walled houses and their high masts of
fluttering prayer flags welcome trekkers to a warm kitchen and a restful night.
In consideration to the height
gained, we have a short day to help acclimatise better to the thinning air. A
major part of Upper Mustang is the unique cultural offering this hidden country
offers, and to mar that opportunity with a quick getaway holiday and unsound
health would be an experience lost. An authentic Mustang lies in the
interactions with the local cultures and cuisines, and we want more of it.
Slow acclimatisation and regular
hydration play vital roles in ensuring our body stay healthy in the high
altitudes, and helps to avoid our holiday from being marred by discomforts and
uneasiness. “Climb high, sleep low", “Take it slow" and “Drink plenty
of fluids" are the secret mantras many have successfully adopted in the
Himalaya.
Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
After breakfast we leave Samar,
gently climbing through a pathways of prayer wheels, taking time to spin each
mantra scripted cylinders clock-wise, and make our way to the chorten above the
village. The route drops sharply into the rugged canyon of the Samarkyung Khola
flowing down from the mountains to our west that fence the magical Dolpo
region. Of course, befitting of a quintessential Himalayan trail where sharp
drops are, almost always, countered by an equally demanding ascents, we climb
right back up and follow that with another drop to the Ihuwa Khola, and climb
back again out of the canyon. From here we follow the route to our right,
climbing a long steepish trail to the plateau of Chorate and continue ascending
at the same gradient for quite some times. This alternative route, though is
taxing provides for ‘topside’ scenic views of the surrounding valleys and
canyons, from vantage point at around 3,900m/12,795ft. Across the valley to our
west, the dirt road and the foot trail to Bhena is seen winding along the
canyon. And as our route contours east, the village of Shyangmochen is visible
ahead to the north, whilst the collection of knotted peaks of Damodar Himal and
Khumjungar Himal rises high to our far east.
Leaving the enticing panorama
behind, we start a long descent with series of sharp but pleasant turns into
the amazing depth of a bottomless gorge. The breath-taking path passes sheer
vertical red cliffs that guard the entrance to the ghostly chasm. The further
we drop, closer the valley walls slide in, as if to discourage unwanted
intruders to a hidden treasure. Eventually we arrive at the Shyangmochen Khola (river) crossing and climb a little to
the holy shrine of Chungsi Ranchung Cave (3,425m/11,237ft), where Guru
Rinpoche, the Second Buddha, is believed to have had spent time meditating here
on his way to Tibet. There are some old and sacred relics, brightly painted
images and natural composite formations of prominent Tibetan Buddhist figures
and scholars around the darkly lit shrine. The climb back up is just as surreal
as the descent, where we escape the walled fortress for the open sky above –
just like a suspenseful sequence from an epic adventure fiction. Up and up and
up we climb out of the abyss, taking care of our footings, soon nearing the
ridge end. The village of Shyangmochen
(3,800m/12,467ft) hides behind a hillock and after passing the
settlement, it is only a short climb to the chortens of Shyangmochen La (3,850m/12,631ft) and a longer descent all
the way to Geling (3,570m/11,712ft).
The quaint hamlet of Geling sits
at the foot of a rocky cliff, surrounded by a bed of farm fields. The Geling
Gompa, known as Tashi Choling Monastery, was founded in the 15th century and
belongs to the Shakya-pa, one of the ancient schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The
monastery is a worth a visit for its ancient relics and rich history.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
We have a long day ahead of us
with a high pass crossing at Nyi La to look forward to. By now, our legs should
be well accustomed to the rugged and dry trails of Mustang, negotiating steep
ascends and loose descends with relative ease. But it still pays to take care of
our footings and our lungs, climbing slowly, acclimatising at a gentle pace and
drinking lots of fluids. Our route continues climbing through fields, meadows
and patches of odd scrubs, with the pass visibly staying with us all the way
this morning. Reaching the summit of Nyi La (4,025m/13,205ft) we are rewarded
with scenic views of the Annapurna and Nilgiri to our south and the beautiful
colours of Mustang to the north, while admiring the height gained. The descent
is enjoyable and joins the dirt road before trailing off to the left over the
Ghami La pass (3,765m/12,352ft), and contours over gentle slopes where ruins of
an old fortress was lost over time. Years later, the Khampas setup a war camp
here and brought new life to Ghami (3,520m/11,548ft) which now boast of
picturesque mani walls, colourful chortens and a large prayer wheel among its
riches. Just beyond the village, we arrive at one of the longest mani wall in
Upper Mustang, about 305 meter/ 1,000 feet, followed by clusters of large
chortens blending seamlessly with the jagged cliffs of grey, orche and red in
the backdrop. Our route then forks to the left aiming for the dramatic red
cliffs of Drakmar, and over the small pass of Choya La (3,870m/12,697ft),
passing through prime bluesheep habitat, before dropping down to the historic
community of Tsarang (3,560m/11,680ft).
“The city appeared like magic, as if a great artist, tired of this arid
land, had decided to paint a fairy artwork on this wild canvas background.”
- Michel Peissel, Mustang, A Lost Tibetan Kingdom
Tsarang was the capital of
Mustang during the 14th century, where the king resided at the Samdrup Gedphel
Palace, a mud-walled citadel which now house a museum with local interests and
icons. The Thubten Shedrup Dhargyeling Gompa at the village centre, is believed
to have been constructed in 1385 and belongs to the Ngor Sakya–pa sect. The
Gompa and the Palace house the greatest library in Lo, while a micro-hydro
plant powers the village. With around 130 homes and busy shops joined by a tunnelled
path, Tsarang is the second largest settlement in Upper Mustang.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
The medieval walled-city of Lo
Manthang and the legends of its cultural riches awaits us at the end of today’s
walk. The anticipation and the excitements, alone, surge us through a
rollercoaster trail that climbs and drops over deep canyons and ravines,
starting with a descend to Charang Khola and following the new dirt road out of
Tsarang. The views keep getting better as we climb higher up with Annapurna I
(8,091m/26,545ft), Nilgiri North (7,061m/23,166ft) and Tilicho Peak
(7,134m/23,405ft) to our south, clusters of Damodar Himal peaks to the
southeast, with the rain-shaded desert of bone-dried cliffs and eroded gorges
sketching the intense surrounding landscape. After about a couple of hours of
walking, we arrive at the impressive site of Garuda Sungda Chorten sitting
alone amidst the barren country. The large white and ochre coloured stupa
stands out with her intricate designs and eight symbols facing the four
directions, like a fabled landmark from a fictional adventure. The trail soon
begins to climb, under spectacular sky caves carved on overhanging cliffs before
arriving at the small pass of Lho La (3,950m/12,960ft) for our first glimpse of
the mythical Lo Manthang – the walled city is a spectacular sight with white
houses, red monasteries and a palace. Thinggar and Namgyal Gompa rises over the
city with ruined forts of Khacho Dzong and Khartsun Dzong providing foregone
securities high above the hill. Over to our northwest, the bright white snowy
caps of Manshail South (6,248m/20,499ft) and the satellite peaks of Mustang
Himal (massif) crowns the barren hills. Horses roam freely amongst the desolate
walls and fields as we circumnutate along the southern walls and cross over a
small bridge to the entrance gateway of the legendary Lo Manthang
(3,810m/12,500ft), the ‘Plain of Aspiration’.
The captivating maze of the city
hides fascinating secrets ready to be discovered. Getting ourselves lost in the
warrens of dirt lanes and narrow alleys that suddenly opens out into pretty
courtyards with water wells and colourful chortens are a pleasure. Lhobas
gossiping in the shade, going about with daily chores, using medieval tools,
sustaining lives, whilst red robed monks stroll pass chanting repetitive
mantras, and domesticated beasts wander around unbothered and unimpressed. The
four prominent gompas (monasteries) inside the medieval fortress city, have
their own interesting history and religious importance. Built in 1387, the red
clay washed Jampa Lhakang is the oldest and statues a 15-meter/50-foot Jampa
(Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future) sculpted from clay. Construction of the
Thupchen Lhakhang Gompa started in 1468, and houses a great assembly hall with
wall murals artfully painted during several different periods. The Ngonga
Choide Gompa dates back around 1710 and houses impressive deities and images,
and the recently constructed Choprang Sakya-Pa Gompa holds artefacts and
scriptures from some 3000 years ago. The Raja’s Palace, of course, is the main
feature of Lo Manthang. Around the city there are rare Tibetan treasures and
artworks on sale, and cups of the infamous Suija (salt butter tea) - all ready
to be discovered, to be explored and experienced.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
Today, our day at Lo Manthang
will be spent exploring the remote tiny villages scattered around the
north-western neighbours. Throughout our Upper Mustang journey, we have been
able to observe the harsh, almost uninhabitable, lifestyles of the Mustangis and
their colourful medieval customs and traditions. But today, with an added
benefit of enjoying a leisurely day, we can take in a much closer look at the
sturdy communities - families working the eroded sediment filled valley floors,
or busy pounding buckwheat, barley and wheat, sustaining lives. Intricate
irrigation canals and washing wells gurgling life into the bone dead land.
There are remnants of primeval Bon-religion, which is Shamanistic and animistic
in nature, mixing with the Shakya-Pa school of ancient Tibetan Buddhism. Many
of the Lhobas still practice polyandry marriages and cultures unique to the
lost kingdom of the Himalaya.
A short hike to the western
valley leads us to the village of Namgyal (3,910m/12,828ft), where a monastic
school of Namgyal Choide Thubten Dhargyeling Gompa (the Monastery of Victory)
was rebuilt in 1953 with relatively modern decorations and imageries. Still the
Gompa maintains the rustic appearances of a Ngor Shakya-pa monastery.
Continuing up north, the king’s summer palace sits among the sprawling village
of Thinggar (4025m/13,205ft). Ancient ruins of Tri fortress and gompas can be
found amongst the cultivated land of the village. Climbing further north, we
arrive at the remote hamlet of Kimaling (4,030m/13,222ft), decorated with
typical white-washed houses and fields. From here, we can almost hear Tibet
across the border. Interestingly, the Kimaling Gompa lies below the village,
perhaps an indication that the monastery could have been built here first and
then the village grew above it. On our return trip, we visit Phuwa village and
its gompa.
And as we head back to Lo
Manthang, it is hard not to be moved by the surrounding valleys who once saw
the boom of the salt trading route to Tibet and Lhasa, and were strategically
guarded with several fortresses that have long been lost in ruins.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
After spending two wonderful days
at Lo Manthang, we begin our return with a long excursion. The Chogo La pass
(4,280m/14,042ft) throws down the first gauntlet of the day, with a long
deceptive climb through desolate sceneries. Using the excuse of admiring ‘the
last views’ of the walled city, we take frequent breaks, catch our breath and
appreciate the captivating surroundings, as we slog up and up and up. Once over
the pass, the trail levels off to a surprising meandering path that contours
over the gentle slopes of the ridge. The secluded trail is a good spot to
observe Trans-Himalayan wildlife and birds scavenging for hunts in the dusty
floors and underneath rocky trappings. The elusive Snow Leopards and pesky Grey
Wolfs often prey upon the livestock of the villages, while the elegant bluesheeps
and Tibetan Gazelles can be seen showcasing cliff-climbing betas even the best
of us cannot fathom. But more often it is the unimpressed yaks, scampering
Himalayan marmots and soaring majestic eagles that greets us along our Mustang
traverse. The descent arrives soon enough with a coarse trail all the way down
to a stream, before reaching Gargen Chyoling Gompa or Ghar Gompa
(3,950m/12,959ft), an ancient nunnery of Lo Gekar (‘Pure Virtue of Joy’). The
monastery is said to be the oldest in Nepal, founded in the 8th century, and is
connected to the ubiquitous Guru Rinpoche slaying a troublesome demon at the
monastery site. Continuing on from the nunnery, we are back again climbing over
the pass at Mui La (4,170m/13,682ft) this time, where the views of the eastern
and southern panoramas are enticing, before a spectacular descend down the
quiet trail. Negotiating over turrets, gullies, chasms and exposed sections, it
is hard not to believe in the folklore that a slayed demon laid here with his
blood soaking the cliffs above Drakmar (3,820m/12,533ft).
“Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures
illustrate a well-known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge
demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red
and purple-grey.” - Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
Our day starts with an easy walk
around the bluff below the dauting red cliffs and caves, before arriving at the
climb to a small pass, the locals call Deurali La. Despite the climb, this
route is much shorter choice than the one that goes along the river and meets
the long mani wall we had visited on our way to Tsarang. By the time we reach
Ghami (3,520m/11,548ft) we will have dropped considerable elevations, but being
this the Great Himalaya, we gain them right back with a climb to Nyi La
(4,010m/13,156ft). From the pass we head down the rugged countryside
accompanied by spectacular scenery of the baren but beautiful wilderness,
passing picturesque chortens and ‘lha tho’, a stone pile on which travellers
put juniper branches and prayer flags to seek safe passage from ‘btsan’, an
elemental spirit who inhabits the earth. We keep to our left as it brings bad
‘karma’ to walk anti-clockwise while passing through sacred chortens, lha tohs
and prayer wheels. The quaint hamlets of Jhaite (3,820m/12,533ft) and Chhunggar
(3,750m/12,303ft), where large colourful chortens mark the village ends, arrives
first. Then we pass the granite boulders along the lovely trail to reach the
village of Tamagaon (3,710m/12,172ft). After a short climb over the
Shyangmochen La we drop down to the cosy comforts of our overnight lodge in
Shyangmochen (3,800m/12.467ft).
The small hamlet of Shyangmochen
was a seasonal ‘kharka’ (yak pastures), and an ideal camping site for trekkers,
before teahouses and lodges took over. Local folklore has it that the kharka
was named after a girl, ‘Shyangmo’, while ‘che’ means ‘place’ in Tibetan.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
From Shyangmochen we follow the
dirt road that goes ‘tersai-tersai’ (flat-flat), a Nepali expression for a
Himalayan-standard flat. We take on the two low passes of Yamda La and Bhena La
(both around 3860m/12,664ft) and drop about 30 meters/ 98 feet to Bhena,
between the two passes. Now on the road we had seen from across the canyon on
our way to Chungsi Ranchung Cave, we make a steep descent to crossings over
intersecting streams, followed by small climbs to the entrance chortens of
Samar, and continue on over Dajori La (3,735m/12,254ft). The descent from the
pass is wonderful with stunning panorama of Yakawa Kang (6,482m/21,266ft),
Thorung Peak (6,144m/20,157ft), Khatung Kang (6,484m/21,273ft), Khangsar Kang
(7,485m/24,577ft), Tilicho Peak (7,134m/23,405ft), Annapurna I
(8,091m/26,545ft) and the Nilgiri Peaks. Retracing our steps, we arrive at the
Gurung village of Gyakar, cross the suspension bridge, and follow the
cliff-sided canyon trail down to Tsaile (3,050m/10,007ft). At the rocky Kali
Gandaki riverbed, we can look for fossilised ammonites - chambered shell of an
extinct squid-like marine animal from the Jurassic period (60 - 400 million
years old), which were embedded in sediment of the sea floor that rose to form
the Himalaya when the Indian plate collided with Asia. These ammonites are
known as ‘saligrams’ in Hindu culture and have a religious value as a
non-anthropomorphic representation of Lord Vishnu. Soon, we arrive at the
mystifying village of Chukksang (2,980m/9,777ft) and the amazing geography the
settlement sits on.
An old salt mine that sustained
the village with wealth in the years past is around two hours east, and an
impressive cliff-topped fortified village of Tetang (3,040m/9,974ft) is just up
the same valley. With its ancient monasteries, chortens and cave homes, Tetang
is worth a visit with time in our hand. At Chukssang, the nearby Mentsi Lhakang
Cave is negotiated via tricky stone steps and houses a monastery dedicated to
holy medicines and Tibetan Buddhist scholars. Of course, it is the stupendous
coloured and eroded cliffs across the Kali Gandaki Khola that really steals the
show at Chukssang.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
Our final day walking on the
Jurassic sediments of Upper Mustang arrives with a sense of achievement as well
as nostalgic admirations for this magnificent Lost Kingdom and her incredible
people. Today’s route is on the familiar road along the Kali Gandaki riverbed,
retracing us back to the narrow-cobbled lanes and photogenic houses of Tangbe
and onto the distance patchworks of Kagbeni and Nilgiri Peaks down the valley.
The picturesque village of Tirigaon (2,815m/9,235ft) sits across the river on
the west bank to mark the entrance to Upper Dolpo Valley. At Kagbeni we exit
Upper Mustang and join the Annapurna Circuit route to Jomsom (2,720m/8,924ft).
The town of Jomsom, or ‘Dzongsam’
which means ‘New Fort’, is the administrative headquarter of the region and a
prime commercial centre bustling with government officials, merchants and
tourists rubbing shoulders with each other. With traders selling everything
from beautifully woven textiles by traditional hand looms to yak tails for
dusting your houses, Jomsom is a shopper’s paradise to find that rustic Tibetan
souvenir or a mystifying lucky amulets and charms on your journey forward.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
A breath-taking flight down the
Kali Gandaki, between the towering Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges is a
marvellous way to conclude our Mustang journey. One can’t help, but to be
awestruck and inspired by the stupendous sizes of the Himalaya, while our
twin-propellor aeroplane scampers like a bug. Landing at Pokhara, we board
another aircraft to Kathmandu, for yet another fantastic mountain flight along
the face of Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh and Langtang ranges. On arrival at
Kathmandu, we will be transferred to our hotel for a well-earned afternoon at
leisure.
Overnight: Four-star Hotel
Meals: Breakfast
Today we have time at
well-deserved leisure. We can take the opportunity to explore Kathmandu on city
tour and sightseeing activities of the heritage sites, or perhaps some shopping
and souvenir hunting, or simply relax and rest after the demanding trek.
The Kathmandu valley locates UNESCO World Heritage Listed sites all within short distances of each other. You may want to start by exploring the city’s two most important spiritual sites, the Hindu pilgrimage complex of the holy Pashupatinath Temple and the serene stupa of Boudhanath, the most sacred Tibetan Buddhist shrine outside of Tibet. Alternatively, the Swayambhunath Buddhist Stupa sitting atop a small hill, has fondly earned the nickname of the Monkey Temple and offers spectacular view of the sprawling capital underneath. The museums and ancient royal courtyards at the three Durbar (Palace) Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, richly transport us to the golden age of Newa cultures and the valley’s rich history.
Our evening is shared with a one
last hurrah. A celebratory farewell dinner in honor of you and the many more
adventures to come.
Overnight: Four-star Hotel
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
Here we bid our farewell and wish
you a nice flight back home. Our office representative will pick you up at the
hotel for your transport to the international airport.
from US$ 2800 per person
SERVICES INCLUDED
SERVICES NOT INCLUDED
HOW FIT DO I NEED TO BE TO DO THE MUSTANG FASTPACK TREK
Most trekking itineraries of
Mustang are generally classified to be ‘moderately difficult’ so as to maximise
the trekking experience inside the limited days. There are no technical
sections and you stay below 4,000 meters (13,000feet) for the most part, but
trekking days are of 6-8 hours along sandy and desert like trodden path, and at
other times rocky. With plenty of opportunities to stop, absorb the mesmerising
views, take photos or have a cup of tea along the trail, the pace is slow and
allow for excellent acclimatisation. Every afternoon has some down time to
relax and detox.
It does pays to be fit and
healthy enough to be able to enjoy the best of the Kingdom of Lho. However,
your training routine does not need to be hard-core, or one fit for mountaineering
expeditions or running a cross-fit marathon. This is trekking, it is supposed
to be an easy walk on familiar pace, while enjoying being outdoor - a total
de-stressing experience that in retrospect results in a toned, healthy and
detoxed trekker. Simply put, the best preparation for a multi-day trek is to
practice walking for multiple days. If you are able to find small hills and
even mountains around your area, do visit them often and built up your legs,
shoulders and even back muscles. These practice hikes should also help you to
test out your gears and to find out what and how much you would like to carry
on your daypack. Nevertheless, if you are unable to find time for daily walks
and hikes, there are number of gym machines and light exercises that should
help you to build your strength, balance and stability. Any cardiovascular
activities such as body pumps, Pilates and aerobics that builds up your heart
rate and lungs are all excellent preparations for a high Himalayan trek. Do
take advices from medical and physical experts before drawing up your training
routines.
In conclusion, the general rule
of thumb is to take it easy. It is a walking holiday with plenty of stoppages
for photo calls and cultural interest, so one does not necessarily need to
overdo their training regimes. Exercise appropriately enough to avoid any
serious health issues or injuries, and allows you to enjoy a gratifying week or
two of trekking in the majestic Himalaya.
WHEN TO TREK TO MUSTANG
Mustang is an arid river valley
lying in the rain-shadow of the Great Annapurna Himal (massif) and experiences
a Trans-Himalayan climatic condition similar to that of the neighbouring
Tibetan highlands. The average rainfall per year is in the lowly range of
250-400mm (9.8-15.7 in) which makes Mustang an ideal region to explore during
the summer monsoon as well. Like the rest of the country, Mustang enjoys four
distinct seasons, but the same season can be experienced differently in Upper
Mustang and Lower Mustang. Flanked on three sides, east-south-west, by the high
Greater Himalaya that include Damodar Himal, Nilgiri Himal, Annapurna Himal,
Dhaulagiri Himal and the Mustang Himal, the movements of rain clouds and winds
creates differential weather patterns around Mustang. At the same time, the
deep gorges carved by the raging Kali Gandaki River rushing north to south
through Mustang, acts as a giant wind tunnel funnelling increasingly fierce
Himalayan cold and dry winds across the region.
Spring (March-May) arrives with
wildflowers and shrubs beautifying the semi-arid country. Around late May, warm
and humid air begins to move in from the Indian Ocean and settle as dense fog
in the Himalaya obscuring the mountain views. The humid air soon condenses
enough to begin the monsoon cycle in June. The rain-shaded Mustang sees little
rain that is just enough to water lush green fields, adorning colours to the
dusty and dry landscape. However, transport through the mid-hills of Annapurna
and Lower Mustang, to arrive at Upper Mustang, will likely be disrupted due to
the summer monsoon. Autumn (September – November) enjoys post-monsoon clear
skies with crisp and stable weather, and stunning views of the surrounding
Himalaya making the period the ideal season to travel to Mustang. The dry and
cold air coming down from Tibet slowly drops the temperature as locals migrate
south for the season (December – February) before the winter storms brings in
large amounts of snow to the region, blocking the trail and often burying
teahouses. Soon, warm air from the Indian Ocean arrives in March raising the
temperature and condenses enough to begin the monsoon cycle again, in
June.
ACCOMODATIONS ON THE MUSTANG FASTPACK TREK
Accommodations throughout our
trek are in traditional Mustang homes, running as cosy lodges by the local
Mustang families. Constructed in accordance to the local climate and building
materials available, these basic homes have thick earthen walls that offer
enough insulations against the harsh wind and cold winters. The lodges, generally
have a bright inner courtyard which make for an excellent spot for lunch under
the warm afternoon sun and mezzanine balcony to relax after a day’s trek. The
accommodations are simple teahouses and offer small adequate rooms furnished
with little more than twin bench-beds, thin mattress, blanket and a pillow. So,
your sleeping kit (3 season is normally enough) will probably see an early use,
and we’d recommend a pillow case. While the rooms remain unheated, a large
stove, burnt with wood or cattle dung, in the central communal areas provides
heat for a snuggly atmosphere. Though few lodges have installed sit-down flush
toilets, most probably have squat toilets with running cold water. The hot
showers are powered by gas, and it is advised to ask for assistance from the
lodge staff before operating them. The remote lodges are powered with solar
energy; hence electricity consumptions are limited and restricted to certain
areas. However, charging facilities and hot showers are charged extra.
Internet, phones and access to the outside world along the remote trail is less
likely or can be days apart. Appropriately, the higher we go into the mountains
more basic the lodges are. The trekking route has few teahouses, with the busy
seasons experiencing fully occupied accommodations, and call for advance
bookings.
WORRIED ABOUT GETTING HUNGRY ON YOUR TREK
A worked-up appetite from long
hours of trekking is now easily sated by the excellent mixtures of local Nepali
food and western recipes offered by the lodges. Hungry trekkers will find
everything from fresh pastries to burgers and beers, Sherpa stew to steak and
pastas at the lodges and shops along the route. Taking advantage of the now
varied menus available in the mountains we, at Trekalayan, understand that for
travellers, food in itself is an adventure, a quest, an opportunity to flavour
the culture of the places visited. We best thought to offer a half-board
program that lets you interact with the locals, learn of their kitchen culture
and allows for a much more authentic experience. The foods are exceptionally
cheap with mostly local grown eatables and home-made ingredients used for the
cooking. Although you get a lot for your money, a budget of around UD$ 30.00 -
US$ 35.00 per day should cover for your meal and drinks during the trekking
days.
PACKING LIST FOR UPPER MUSTANG
Mustang enjoys Trans-Himalayan
climate where the days can stay relatively warm and the nights cool off
significantly, so we will require range of clothing. It gets windy as the day
progresses and with a desert-like terrain gets pretty much dusty. Sunglasses,
buffs and backpack covers to keep those dusts away will come in needs early on,
so test them out before leaving for the trek. The general rule, followed by
experienced trekkers in Nepal, is to always bring along protective layers that
can be easily carried in the daypack and dressed up or down to your likings. As
might be expected, there is a luggage limit for the small twin-propellor engine
flight from Pokhara to the Himalayan belly of Jomsom, with 10 kg (22lb) for
checked-in baggage and 5 kg (11lb) for carry on. Since the days of the early 1900s’ British
Everest Expeditions, packing for a Himalayan traverse has always been a journey
in itself, with its own adventures and mis-adventures.
Well, let’s keep them simple and
basic. All we need are clothing that will keep us warm, dry, protected from the
sun/rain/wind, and are comfortable to move in the mountains. You do not require
too many changes of clothing and it is perfectly normal to wear the same for
few days or even a week. Make sure you are comfortable with the contents and
weight of your daypack, and above all, do not forget to bring in one healthy
dose of what Sir John Hunt, the leader of the successful 1953 British Everest
Expedition, would call ‘the Excelsior Spirit’. Below, we present you a basic
comprehensive packing list suitable for the Mustang FastPack trek.
BAGS - A large Duffle bag/Rucksack
(~80L) for a porter to carry. The porters are only allowed to carry a fixed
weight of 15kgs (33lb). A comfortable Medium Daypack (~40L) should be large
enough to carry your drinks, snacks, medic kits, extra clothing and accessories
you may need during your walk.
SHELL CLOTHING – Breathable water proof
layers are the best and lightest to keep off those Himalayan wind/rain. These
layers avoid condensations from body heat which may be experienced from nylon
waterproofs.
INSULATION - Warm layered system to
keep your body, hands and head comfortable in the evenings or even during the
trek.
BASELAYER – Adding thin layers when
conditions get cold, and stripping down when it gets hot is the way to go.
Plus, there are light, stays dry and wick away sweats quickly.
FEET – Comfortable and broken-in,
waterproof hiking boots that support your ankles over rough terrain. Lighter
footwear or sandals to change into in the evenings. A pair of reasonably thick
loop stitch socks should be enough for the six days of trekking and help
protect the feet against blisters.
EATING/DRINKING - Water bottles/Hydration
pack & your favourite snacks from home during the day.
WASHING & MEDICAL - To allow you to
wash and maybe stave off a headache or blisters.
ELECTRONIC DEVICES – Your smartphone to
stay connected where you can or even your favourite adventure camera. Make sure
you have the correct supply voltages and electronic plugs that are compatible
in Nepal for your chargers. Nepal operates on 230V standard voltage and
frequency of 50Hz, with most lodges using sockets for Type C, Type M or Type D
plugs.
The trails, now a days, can be a
bit of a fashion runway with people sporting the latest and the most expensive
outdoor trends. You don’t have to go overboard. It is also ok to express your
own personal styles and expressions, but do find a healthy balance between
comfort and durability.
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