Flying in or out of Kathmandu valley is an amazing experience, very much so, on a clear day. As the plane approaches from the southern west vector, the Himalaya can be seen on the far distant north. The approach beautifully navigates between low mountains, passing over picturesque views of small villages, terrace fields and lush forests, before the urban city and its intrigued network of roads and concrete buildings sprawl below us.

As you make your way through the formalities of the immigration and custom procedures, our Office Representative will be awaiting at the airport and assists during our hotel check in. Hopefully the long flight has not been too exhausting for a pleasant evening. 

Overnight: Four-star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast  

We have an exciting morning ahead of us as we head to the airport for a short flight to Pokhara, Nepal’s second largest city. If the weather permits, the flight offers spectacular views of the Himalaya, with the majestic Manaslu range and the impressive Annapurna massif staying with us as we fly right over luscious foothills, isolated villages and terraced farmlands. The distinct twin peaks of Machhapucharre (Fishtail Mountain, 6,999 m/ 22,963 ft) are seemingly hard to miss as our flight slowly prepares to land. On arrival, we will transfer to our hotel and have the afternoon to our leisure. 

The idyllic lakeside city of Pokhara sits with many hidden charms and cultural interests. Of course, the placid water of Fewa Tal (Fewa Lake) is her centrepiece, whilst the Annapurna Himal and the Dhaulagiri range are the jewels over her sky. A boat ride in the Fewa Lake is very tranquil and helps to unwind underneath the impressive views of the mountains. The boat ride can also row us to the small little island of Taal Barahi Temple, a Hindu site dedicated to Goddess Durga – the protector. An afternoon hike to the Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), a hilltop Buddhist monument on the southern fringe of Fewa Lake, allows for a few-hours excursion away from the hectic city. The white dome-shaped pagoda has four statutes of Buddha from Japan, Sri-Lanka, Thailand and Nepal overlooking the four directions, and offers spectacular views of the mountains. The Old Pokhara Bazaar is a colourful market selling Tibetan, Gurung, Newari and other diverse ethnical commodities and souvenirs. The city also centres few museums dedicated to mountaineering, natural history and the Gurkha soldiers of the region, and offer insightful history of the area. A nice walk to Davis Falls, a waterfall with strange rock formation and deep cut gorge, and Mahendra Cave, a limestone cave with rising stalagmites and dropping stalactites, should offer leisurely options in Pokhara. Or we can reserve the day for just simply relaxing by the lakeside with a drink in our hand.

Overnight: Tourist-standard Hotel

Meals: Breakfast 

The flight to Jomsom leaves Pokhara airport early in the morning with an unforgettable flying experience through the deep Kali Gandaki gorge, as the STOL plane glides between the towers of Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545ft), Nilgiri Central (6,940m/22,769ft) and Nilgiri North (7,061m/23,166ft) on the east and Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,795ft) and Tukuche Peak (6,920m/22,703ft) on the west. On landing at the sensational tiny airstrip on the head of the Himalayan gorge, we allow ourselves a cup of warm tea to take in the stunning Himalayan panorama, while our trek team prepares for the walk ahead. The warmth of the tea cup seems to spread over the splendid scenery and glow onto our smiles. The spiritual Vietnamese poet, Thich Nhat Hnah said it best, “You must be completely awake in the present to enjoy the tea.”     

The walk to Kagbeni is a pleasant three-hour hike through a wide trail that follows the windy Kali Gandaki Khola (river) upstream on a combination of sandy road and Saligram-filled riverbed. Heading northbound, the day’s easy trail let us stretch our legs and warm up our muscles, whilst taking in ample opportunities to impress us with the rugged terrain spread out below the high mountains of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Annapurna and Tukuche. Dry plateaus and barren hillsides adorned with grey, red and white chortens (Buddhist stupas) are marked with colourful prayer flags fluttering wildly to the Himalayan winds and constantly whip their Tibetan scripts and mantras onto travellers, blessing their journeys ahead. Soon enough, we pass the quaint settlement of Eklebhatti (2,740m/8,990ft) and stay with the Kali Gandaki Khola, all the way to a cliff overlooking the confluence where the river meets with Jhong Khola. Here the settlement bank of Kagbeni (2,810m/9,219ft), a pretty Tibetan farm village, welcomes us into Mustang.  

Kagbeni is one of the oldest villages in the Himalaya. Ancient alleyways and tunnels, that are low and narrow, run through old Kagbeni and were designed to protect commuters from the mountain winds rushing down the valley. The Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Monastery or better known as the ‘Red Gompa’, in the centre of the village, was built in 1429 and is very much worth a visit. You can feel the centuries in the walls of this building and seek their blessings from foregone ages. The outskirt of the village is walled by green fields of wheat and barley fed by the intricate irrigation canals from the Kali Gandaki River, and provides a contrasting greenery against the barren geography of the valley. The uniqueness of the pre-Buddhist Bom culture of Mustang can be found in the shrines for ‘ghost traps’ and figures of a male and a female Kheni (Ghost Eaters) guarding the northern and southern entrances to the village. 

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

A short drive of about 12.4 km/ 7.7 miles to the east of Kagbeni, lies the holy pilgrimage site of Muktinath, sacred to both Hindus and Buddhist, and considered to be the world’s highest temple at 3,760m/12,336ft. The drive is on a scenic mountainous road that passes through the lovely villages of Khingar and Jharkot and the vivid cultural interests they offer, before the road ends at the foot of Thorong La mountain pass. Arriving at Muktinath, we are soon transported through a colourful street lined with lodges, cafes, bars and souvenir shops, busy with trekkers, pilgrims and ponies for hire. 

Devoted to Lord Vishnu, the shrine is considered as one of the sacred 108 Divya Desam (premium temple) and known as ‘Mukti Kshetra’ which literally means ‘place of moksh (liberation)’ by the Hindu community. Buddhists call it Chumig Gyatsa, which means "Hundred Waters" in Tibetan, and a sacred place of Dakinis, goddesses known as Sky Dancers. Tibetan Buddhist celebrates the shrine as the manifestation of Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva (titled given to one who has attained nirvana) of Compassion and Virtue and considers the site as one of the 24 holy Tantric places. Pilgrims to the site take holy bath in among the 108 cow-headed water sprouts for ‘salvation’ and witness the eternal sacred flames of Dhola Mebar Monastery, burn from the natural gas jet near a spring.

From Muktinath, we walk along the northern trail of the valley, winding along the dry hillsides that are characterised by eroded sandstone slopes. The massive Dhaulagiri Himal stands far ahead in front as we pass by few spots of green fields that colours the arid land. Behing us Dajong Paldip (5,431m/17,818ft), Yakawakang (6,482m/21,266ft), Thorong Peak (6,144m/20,157ft) and the trail leading up to the popular Thorong La mountain pass can be traced along the high rising Himalayan wall. Soon we arrive at the village of Jhong where ruins of an old fort (Dzong, which gave the village its name) sits atop a vantage ridge. Its centuries-old dry clay walls slowly eroding away. The old village still retains its charm away from the popular tourist route, as the locals go about their daily chores, working the land and sustaining a living, making the walk a gratifying excursion. Leaving the village, we cross barren plains and seepage springs that have large salt deposits around them, and occasionally descending down rolling hills and shrub grasslands, transporting us to the life of ancient Tibetan nomads. Soon, we arrive at the Kali Gandaki river bed and the luscious fields of Kagbeni.

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

To pass beyond Kagbeni we will need to sign in with a special permit. Once the formalities are over, the growing anticipation of venturing into this once forbidden Himalayan Kingdom soon becomes a reality. A long mani wall, stacked with stone tablets inscribed with elegant Tibetan devotional mantras, bless our traverse into the rugged but beautiful Shangri-La, which is immediately followed by a steep climb over a dirt road. Brightly coloured canyons, riverbeds, eroded turrets, shapely bluffs and dry cliffs characterise the rain shaded country before us, while a glance back at Kagbeni and the southern skies contrast that with patches of green fields and stunning snow-capped spires of Nilgiri Peaks. Across the valley, the Ghilungpa Khola rushes down to meet the Kali Gandaki Khola and a trail can be seen climbing high above heading towards Jungben La pass and to the hidden wonders of Dolpo, another Himalayan sanctuary. The settlement of Tangbe (3,060m/1,040ft) soon arrives with a typical black, white and red chorten that are found in Upper Mustang. The pretty village of the Gurung community, is adorned with an ancient dzong (fortress), narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, an archery ground, a green apple farm and fields of buckwheat, barley and wheat. The dirt road continues on from the village, around the hillsides, occasionally disturbed by local horsemen trotting gallantly or by sturdy jeeps gasping for more air to feed the combustion engine. Across the river, Kunza Choling Monastery or better known as Gompa Kang sits unflustered away from prying visitors who may find the long detour to reach there a little bothersome. A little over an hour after leaving Tangbe, we reach Chhuksang (2,980m/ 9,777ft) where cliff walls have eroded to resemble a multi coloured ‘pipe-organ’. Anyone fancy a rendition of J.S. Bach’s ‘Toccata and Fugue’? Continuing north, we reach a ruined fort and pass narrow canyons cut deep on striking red cliffs where chunks fallen from above have been gorgeded through by the Kali Gandaki Khola to form an interesting river tunnel. While the river struggles to find its course through the narrow defile, our attentions are diverted to the many sky caves carved out on high above the fluted red cliffs. Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks as retreats. Many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful game to hunt. Back on the trail, we cross over two suspension bridges to the west bank of Kali Gandaki (now the Mustang Khola) and begin our ascent to Tsaile on a beautiful trekking trail that sharply winds up for about 100m/328ft.

The scattered and small village of Tsaile (3,050m/10,007ft) is notable with simple houses and lodges that have sheep horns and ‘zor’ (ghost traps) above their doorways to ward off evil spirits, a practice that dates back to pre-Buddhist Bon religion. A large prayer wheel sits south of the village with eight auspicious symbols to purify travellers entering the settlement. The five neighbouring villages of the area – Tsaile, Chuksang, Ghyakar, Tangbe and Tetang are home to an indigenous community who are more culturally related to the Manangis in the east than the Lhobas in the north.   

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

We start off with a climb, this morning, over a dramatic canyon to the west of Kali Gandaki Valley. The village of Ghyakar, barley fields and wood of large trees can be seen across the canyon ahead, whilst behind us the panoramic views of Khatung Kang (6,484m/21,273ft), Thorung Peak (6,144m/20,157ft), and Yakawa Kang (6,482m/21,266ft) extend over the high-altitude desert of the Tibetan plateaus. Sitting on a gorge, the village of Ghyakar (3,562m/11,686ft) leads us though a khani (gateway entrance) and tunnels under houses to a small village square with a washing place. Climbing steadily on, pass the bushy vegetations, the trail is drier and arid as we approach Dajori La (pass, 3,735m/12,254ft). The view at the pass now includes Nilgiri Himal (massif) stretching to our south along with the aforementioned peaks of Muktinath Himal, and a steep old trail that still connects Tsaile and Samar across the valley. The charming village of Samar is soon visible with a short descent that contour round a ridge lined with chortens. Nestled on an orchard of poplar trees, Samar (3,660m/12,008ft) was once an inviting rest-stop for salt traders and caravans of mule crossing over from Tibet. Later on, the village was used by the Khampas, Tibetan warriors, as a staging post to launch raids into Tibet. Now, the white-walled houses and their high masts of fluttering prayer flags welcome trekkers to a warm kitchen and a restful night.

In consideration to the height gained, we have a short day to help acclimatise better. A major part of Upper Mustang is the unique cultural offering this hidden country provides, and to enjoy that with sound health would be a major win. An authentic Mustang lies in the interactions with the local cultures and cuisines, and we want more of it. 

Slow acclimatisation and regular hydration play vital roles in ensuring our body stay healthy in the high altitudes, and helps to avoid our holiday from being marred by discomforts and uneasiness. “Climb high, sleep low", “Take it slow" and “Drink plenty of fluids" are the secret mantras many have successfully adopted in the Himalaya.

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

After breakfast we leave Samar, gently climbing through a pathways of prayer wheels, taking time to spin each mantra scripted cylinders clock-wise, and make our way to the chorten above the village. The route drops sharply into the rugged canyon of the Samarkyung Khola flowing down from the mountains to our west that fence the magical Dolpo region. Of course, befitting of a quintessential Himalayan trail where sharp drops are, almost always, countered by an equally demanding ascents, we climb right back up and follow that with another drop to the Ihuwa Khola, and climb back again out of the canyon. From here we follow the route to our right, climbing a long steepish trail to the plateau of Chorate and continue ascending at the same gradient for quite some times. This alternative route, though it is taxing provides for ‘topside’ scenic views of the surrounding valleys and canyons, from a vantage point of around 3,900m/12,795ft. Across the valley to our west, the dirt road and the foot trail to Bhena can be seen winding along the canyon. And as our route contours towards east, the village of Shyangmochen is visible ahead to the north, whilst the collection of knotted peaks of Damodar Himal and Khumjungar Himal rises high to our far east. 

Leaving the enticing panorama behind, we start a long descent with series of sharp but pleasant turns into the amazing depth of the bottomless gorge. The breath-taking path passes sheer vertical red cliffs that guard the entrance to the ghostly chasm. The further we drop, closer the valley walls slide in, as if to discourage unwanted intruders to a hidden treasure cove. Eventually we arrive at the Shyangmochen Khola (river) crossing and climb a little to the holy shrine of Chungsi Ranchung Cave (3,425m/11,237ft), where Guru Rinpoche, the Second Buddha, is believed to have had spent time meditating here on his way to Tibet. There are some old and sacred relics, brightly painted images and natural composite formations of prominent Tibetan Buddhist figures and scholars around the darkly lit shrine. The climb back up is just as surreal as the descent, where we escape the walled fortress for the open sky above – just like on a suspenseful sequence from an epic adventure fiction with thundering soundtrack. Up and up and up we climb out of the abyss, making sure our footings are safe, soon the ridge end is near. The small hamlet of Shyangmochen (3,800m/12,467ft) hides behind a hillock, inviting us to a convenient overnight stop.

Shyangmochen was a seasonal ‘kharka’ (yak pastures), and an ideal camping site for trekkers, before teahouses and lodges took over. Legends has it that the kharka was named after a girl, ‘Shyangmo’, while ‘che’ means ‘place’ in Tibetan.

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

We have a long day ahead of us with a high pass crossing at Nyi La to look forward to. We begin our morning with an ascend to the chortens of Shyangmochen La (3,850m/12,631ft) where we are greeted by an impressive view of Upper Mustang. A descent of around 45 minutes drops us to Geling (3,570m/11,712ft), one of the bigger villages of the region that houses an impressive 15th century Monastery known as Tashi Choling Gompa. Continuing on, our muscles should be well accustomed to the rugged and dry trails of Mustang, negotiating steep ascends and loose descends with relative ease. But it still pays to take care of our footings and our lungs as we climb slowly, acclimatising at a gentle pace and drinking lots of fluids. Our route continues ascending through fields, meadows and patches of odd scrubs, with the pass visibly staying with us all the way. Reaching the summit of Nyi La (4,025m/13,205ft) we are rewarded with scenic views of the Annapurna and Nilgiri to our south and the beautiful colours of Mustang to the north, and admire the considerable height we have gained. The descent is enjoyable and joins the dirt road before trailing off to the left, over the Ghami La pass (3,765m/12,352ft), and contours over gentle slopes where ruins of an old fortress, lost over time, can be seen. Years later, the Khampas setup a war camp here and brought new life to Ghami (3,520m/11,548ft) which now boast of picturesque mani walls, colourful chortens and a large prayer wheel among its riches. 

Upper Mustang’s third largest town, Ghami, blends seamlessly with the backdrop of jagged cliffs, its chortens coloured grey, ochre and red clearly influenced by the colours of the landscape. The red painted Palsa Ngor Tashi Chholing Gompa is hard to miss and has some intricate carvings and images depicting Chenrezig, the most revered Boddhisattva.

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Leaving Ghami behind, we arrive at one of the longest mani wall in Upper Mustang, about 305 meter/ 1,000 feet, followed by clusters of large chortens blending seamlessly with the jagged cliffs of grey, ochre and red in the backdrop. Our route then forks to the left aiming for the dramatic red cliffs of Drakmar village, and passing through prime blue sheep habitat. “Drakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well-known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rinpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.” - Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door

From Drakmar (3,820m/12,533ft), one of the best trekking path lies in front of us as we near the mythical Lo Manthang via Lo Gekar. Negotiating over turrets, gullies, chasms and exposed sections, it is hard not to believe in the folklore that a slayed demon laid here with his blood soaking the cliffs above Drakmar. Elegant blue sheeps and Tibetan Gazelles graze the arid hillsides, ever often showcasing cliff-climbing betas even the best of us cannot fathom. But more often it is the unimpressed yaks, scampering Himalayan marmots, and soaring Himalayan Griffins and choughs that greet us along our Mustang traverse. Soon we reach the narrow opening in the cliffs and cross the first ridge of Mui La (4,175m/13,682ft), where the views of the eastern and southern panoramas are breath-taking. We drop back down and climb yet again through high meadows and rocky streams to the other ridge of Mui La (4130m/13.550ft). Finally, we reach Gargen Chyoling Gompa or Ghar Gompa (3,950m/12,959ft), an ancient nunnery of Lo Gekar (‘Pure Virtue of Joy’). The monastery is said to be the oldest in Nepal, founded in the 8th century, and is connected to the ubiquitous Guru Rinpoche slaying a troublesome demon at the monastery site.

Ghar (house) Gompa is fondly called after the style of architecture and harbours wonderfully painted walls and carved mani stones. The legend of Lo Gekar is connected with Samye monastery in Tibet, where demons kept disrupting the construction of the gompa. The Lamas dreamt that Guru Rinpoche could help them and he advised a gompa must first be established at Lo Gekar. Arriving here, Guru Rinpoche slayed a demon whose blood paints the cliffs at Drakmar. Gargen Chyoling Gompa or Ghar Gompa was constructed over the spot where the demon was slayed.  

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

The medieval walled-city of Lo Manthang and the legends of its lost riches awaits us at the end of today’s walk. The anticipation and the excitements, alone, surge us as we leave behind the tranquil prayer rooms of Ghar Gompa and head for the crest of Chogo La, our highest elevation in the entirety of the trek. But first we make a short descend to the crossing of a small stream before initiating a two hour-ish climb that offers views of the Khumjungar Himal, far off in the distance, and deceptive false tops that seem to mock our efforts. Finally, the first topside arrives and the trail levels off to forgiving contours toward the summit of Chogo La (4,280m/14,042ft). The descend is a dream, rewarded with easy underfoot along the nomadic grounds. Soon we arrive at a fork where the left trail heads toward Samdrubling (4,090m/13,418ft) a once sacred Buddhist centre founded by the Kagyu-Pa disciples in the 12th century. We take the right fork and head for our first glimpse of the mythical Lo Manthang – the walled city is a spectacular sight with white houses, red monasteries and a palace. Thinggar and Namgyal Gompa rises over the city with ruined forts of Khacho Dzong and Khartsun Dzong providing foregone securities high above the hill. Over to our northwest, the bright white snowy caps of Manshail South (6,248m/20,499ft) and the satellite peaks of Mustang Himal (massif) crowns the barren hills. Few more ‘cols’ and compromising over eroded and wet areas we reach the valley bed where horses roam freely amongst the desolate fields and walls of ancient fortresses and gompas. It’s an exciting moment when we arrive at the fabled walls of Lo Manthang (3,810m/12,500ft), aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’. 

The captivating maze of the city hides fascinating secrets ready to be discovered. Getting ourselves lost in the warrens of dirt lanes and narrow alleys that suddenly opens out into pretty courtyards with water wells and colourful chortens are a pleasure. Lhobas gossiping in the shade, going about with their daily chores, using medieval tools, sustaining lives, whilst red robed monks stroll pass chanting repetitive mantras, and domesticated beasts wander around unbothered and unimpressed. The four prominent gompas (monasteries) inside the medieval fortress city, have their own interesting history and religious importance. Built in 1387, the red clay washed Jampa Lhakang is the oldest and statues a 15-meter/50-foot Jampa (Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future) sculpted from clay. Construction of the Thupchen Lhakhang Gompa started in 1468, and houses a great assembly hall with wall murals artfully painted during several different periods. The Ngonga Choide Gompa dates back around 1710 and houses impressive deities and images, while the recently constructed Choprang Sakya-Pa Gompa holds artefacts and scriptures from some 3000 years ago. The Raja’s Palace, of course, is the main feature of Lo Manthang. Around the city there are rare Tibetan treasures and artworks on sale, and cups of the infamous Suija (salt butter tea) - all ready to be discovered, to be explored and experienced.  

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

We head north along a wide canyon trail, past ruined fortress, dry gullies and isolated farms before finally arriving at the almost-fictional world of Chosar Valley. To our right, across two rivers, sits the deep-red monastery of Nyphu (3,760m/12,336ft) built into the rock face filled with sacred caverns. The cliff complex belongs to the Ngor Shakya-pa school and is known as the Cave of the Sun. It houses paintings and artworks of religious importance and the monastery building was added to the caved complex around 16th century. Up next is the monastery settlement of Garphu (3,900m/ 12,795ft) after rounding a chorten-topped ridge, where the gompa centres a small courtyard surrounded by houses. Atop the entrance to the monastery are golden statues of two deer, a male and a female representing peace and compassion, facing a Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Dharma). Past Garphu is an incredible five-story cave dwelling on a towering red cliff called the Shija Dzong Cave (Jhong cave) reputed to be around 2,500–3,000 years old. A steep ladder has been constructed to provide access to the entrance of the cavern, from where a small tunnel leads us to the many rooms and floors carved inside the cliff. Small holes cut into the rock face act as windows that offer stunning views of the peaks that marks the border to Tibet.

The Chosar Valley was the main salt trading route to Tibet and Lhasa, and was strategically guarded with several fortresses that have long been lost in ruins. And as we head back to Lo Manthang, it is hard not to be moved by the rich history, the immense economic contributions and intense political struggles this lost land, forgotten on the roof of the world, has observed.   

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

Today, our day at Lo Manthang will be spent exploring the remote tiny villages scattered around the north-western neighbours. Throughout our Upper Mustang journey, we have been able to observe the harsh, almost uninhabitable, lifestyles of the Mustangis and their colourful medieval customs and traditions. But today, with an added benefit of enjoying a leisurely day, we can take in a much closer look at the sturdy communities of Lhobas. Families working the eroded sediment filled valley floors, or busy pounding buckwheat, barley and wheat, sustaining lives. Intricate irrigation canals and washing wells gurgle life into the bone dead land. There are remnants of primeval Bon-religion, which is Shamanistic and animistic in nature, mixing with the Shakya-Pa school of ancient Tibetan Buddhism. Many of the Lhobas still practice polyandry marriages and cultures unique to the lost kingdom of the Himalaya. 

A short hike to the western valley leads us to the village of Namgyal (3,910m/12,828ft), where a monastic school of Namgyal Choide Thubten Dhargyeling Gompa (the Monastery of Victory) was rebuilt in 1953 with relatively modern decorations and imageries. Still the Gompa maintains the rustic appearances of a Ngor Shakya-pa monastery. Continuing up north, the king’s summer palace sits among the sprawling village of Thinggar (4025m/13,205ft). Ancient ruins of Tri fortress and gompas can be found amongst the cultivated land of the village. Climbing further north, we arrive at the remote hamlet of Kimaling (4,030m/13,222ft), decorated with typical white-washed houses and fields. From here, we can almost call out to Tibet, way across the border. Interestingly, the Kimaling Gompa lies below the village, perhaps an indication that the monastery could have been built here first and then the village grew above it. On our return trip, we visit Phuwa village and its gompa.

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

After spending two wonderful days at Lo Manthang, we are on our way back with a stunning day along airy ridgeline of Udi Danda. Initially we follow the motor road to Lho La (3,950m/12,960ft) where we celebrate our last views over Lo Manthang. Little further down we take the foot path on the left to a small ravine before climbing on gentle contours. Choga La can be viewed over to our west, while Annapurna I and Nilgiri fans out far to the east. There are few exposed and loose areas as the scenery gets evermore dramatic and the trail narrower, but soon we arrive at the summit (4,196m/ 13,766ft) graced with colourful chortens. The trail now follows the high ridge, from where the impressive Garuda Sungda Chorten can be seen sitting alone amidst the barren country on the Tsarang road down below. The trail switches to the east and opens the fabulous vistas overlooking the Mustang Khola - an artwork of reds, oranges, yellows, creams, greys and contorted brown to appreciate. The descent from Dhi La (3,950m/12.960ft) arrives with views over Yara and Ghara, but we keep our attention to the steep trail as we head down the astounding chasm. Across the valley, the village of Surkhang lies with considerable settlements and as the path snakes down, the hamlet of Dhi (3,400m/11,155ft) arrives with flat-roofed Tibetan houses and fields of burley and buckwheat. We reach the riverbed of Mustang Khola and cross the shallow river east toward Puyung Khola Valley and Yara as the path gradually climbs the canyon ahead. The daunting walls of Yara cliffs soon comes into view with sky caves that have illustrated many travel books. The village of Yara (3,650m/11,975ft) offers cosy lodges with delightful views of the surrounding country. The traditional homes seem a bit run down and crumbly, the white mud walls a bit faded, as our eyes seek out the bizarre formations melted on the cliff face across the village.  

The caves of Yara are located high above the Mustang Khola, forming eroded faces that are now inaccessible high above the fantastic pinnacles that sculpts the canyon. Hundreds of hard-to-reach caverns are cut into the imposing natural features, igniting a mysterious theory of their original dwellers. 

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

An enjoyable day of cultural highlights takes us to few places that are often overlooked for a shorter Upper Mustang experience. The early risers can view the sunrise over the high rising Yara cliffs from a vantage point on the northeast side of the village. After breakfast, we begin our visit with Ghara and follow the track as it cuts through fields and join a wide track as it ascends along an easy climb. Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peaks lifts their heads miles to the southwest, reminding us that we are in the Himalaya. The small hamlet of Ghara (3,920m/12,861ft) has some cosy homes and teahouses to enjoy a hot cup of tea. Our trail continues to climb pass colourful chortens and mud ruins eventually arriving at Luri Cave high above at an astonishing location. There are ancient images and paintings of prominent figures of Tibetan Buddhism, including Buddha and Guru Rinpoche, some even painted in the 12th century by Newari artisans from Kathmandu Valley. Located nearby is the fabled Druk-Pa Kargu Luri Gompa overlooking the Puyung River. The monastery was constructed after an early king of Lho married a princess from Bhutan who brought with her the Druk-Pa influence. We head down to the river and walk along the saligram dotted riverbed to reach the access point of the Tashi Kabum Cave complex. The recently discovered complex has a difficult and dangerous approach, and advised not to attempt an entry without proper trainings and experiences. Though the caves are out of reach, the narrow canyons are dark and eerie, rising steeply towards the sky. The ambiance gives off an adventure fiction vibe. We return back to Yara with a short climb. 

On our way toward Tsarang, once the capital of Lho during the 14th century, we admire the ancient caves adorned on the fluted cliffs across the river one more time before dropping to the saligram-filled river bed. It’s a fairly short hike to the new buildings of the lush green oasis of Surkhang (3,400m/11,155ft), the administrative centre for the neighbouring old villages that had flourished during the salt-route to Tibet. We will be crossing the shallow waters of Mustang Khola, so have your sandals with you. We leave the valley on a steep path leading through a spectacular gorge that ends over a ridge and a chorten, where we are offered our first glimpse of the historic community of Tsarang (3,560m/11,680ft).

“The city appeared like magic, as if a great artist, tired of this arid land, had decided to paint a fairy artwork on this wild canvas background.” - Michel Peissel, Mustang, A Lost Tibetan Kingdom  

The king’s residence of Samdrup Gedphel Palace, a mud-walled citadel, now house a museum with local interests and icons. The Thubten Shedrup Dhargyeling Gompa at the village centre, is believed to have been constructed in 1385 and belongs to the Ngor Sakya–pa sect. The Gompa and the Palace jointly host the greatest library in Lo, while a micro-hydro plant powers the village. With around 130 homes and busy shops joined by a tunnelled path, Tsarang is the second largest settlement in Upper Mustang.     

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner  

We are back on the dirt road, first climbing toward Tsarang La (3,870m/12,697ft), followed by a descend through switchback road to a set of impressive chortens and the longest mani wall in Mustang, about 305 meter/ 1,000 feet. By the time we reach Ghami (3,520m/11,548ft) we will have dropped considerable elevations, nevertheless in the Great Himalaya we gain them right back, with a climb to Nyi La (4,010m/13,156ft). From the pass we head down the rugged countryside accompanied by spectacular scenery of the baren but beautiful wilderness, passing picturesque chortens and ‘lha tho’, a stone pile on which travellers put juniper branches and prayer flags to seek safe passage from ‘btsan’, an elemental spirit who inhabits the earth. We keep to the left as it brings bad ‘karma’ to walk anti-clockwise while passing through sacred chortens, lha tohs and prayer wheels. The quaint hamlets of Jhaite (3,820m/12,533ft) and Chhunggar (3,750m/12,303ft), where large colourful chortens mark the village ends, arrives first. Then we drop down to the village of Gheling (5,570m/11,712ft) for the cosy comforts of our overnight stay.

The quaint hamlet of Geling sits at the foot of a rocky cliff, surrounded by a bed of farm fields. The Geling Gompa, known as Tashi Choling Monastery, was founded in the 15th century and belongs to the Shakya-pa, one of the ancient schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery is a worth a visit for its ancient relics and rich history.  

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

“Tersai, tersai” (flat, flat) a Nepali description of a Himalayan flat of ups and downs with lesser, but noticeable gradients, do not do much to comfort our muscles. First to arrive is Shyangmochen La (3,850m/12,631ft), the airy ridge offering few last glimpses of the vast wilderness of Upper Mustang before heading down toward the pastures of Shyangmochen. This is then followed by the two low passes of Yamda La and Bhena La (both around 3860m/12,664ft) with about 30 meters/ 98 feet descend to Bhena between the two passes. We stay on the motor road that had been seen from across the canyon on our way to Chungsi Ranchung Cave. From the Bhena La, it is a steep drop to the crossing over an intersecting stream, followed by two small climbs to the entrance chorten of Samar (3,660m/12,008ft).

The delightful Samar village sits by lovely poplar grove and offers fantastic backdrop of the Annapurna and Nilgiri ranges to the south. Relax, enjoy the afternoon and feel free to take in the sunset over the majestic Himalayan charms with a cup of salt-butter tea. 

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

Our last morning at Upper Mustang begins with a climb over Dajori La (3,735m/12,254ft). The descent from the pass is wonderful with stunning panorama of Yakawa Kang (6,482m/21,266ft), Thorung Peak (6,144m/20,157ft), Khatung Kang (6,484m/21,273ft), Khangsar Kang (7,485m/24,577ft), Tilicho Peak (7,134m/23,405ft), Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545ft) and the Nilgiri Peaks. Retracing our steps, we arrive at the Gurung village of Gyakar, cross the suspension bridge, and follow the cliff-sided canyon trail down to Tsaile (3,050m/10,007ft). All the while taking care of our footings on the loose and often steep descents. At the rocky Kali Gandaki riverbed, we can look for fossilised ammonites - chambered shell of an extinct squid-like marine animal from the Jurassic period (60 - 400 million years old), which were embedded in sediment of the sea floor that rose to form the Himalaya when the Indian plate collided with Asia. These ammonites are known as ‘saligrams’ in Hindu culture and have a religious value as a non-anthropomorphic representation of Lord Vishnu. Soon, we arrive at the mystifying village of Chukksang (2,980m/9,777ft) and the amazing geography that neighbours the settlement.

An old salt mine that sustained the village with wealth in the years past is around two hours east, and an impressive cliff-topped fortified village of Tetang (3,040m/9,974ft) is just up the same valley. With its ancient monasteries, chortens and cave homes, Tetang is worth a visit if time is not of the essence. At Chukssang, the nearby Mentsi Lhakang Cave is negotiated via tricky stone steps and houses a monastery dedicated to holy medicines and Tibetan Buddhist scholars. Of course, it is the stupendous coloured and eroded cliffs across the Kali Gandaki Khola that really steals the show at Chukssang.  

From here, we take a private vehicle on the familiar road along the plateau high above the Kali Gandaki riverbed. The sceneries are magnificent now that we are speeding in the Himalayan valley. The red, white and black chortens of the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe arrives with charming houses, labyrinth of narrow alleyways, apple orchards and fields of wheat, barley and buckwheat. Patchworks of green fields and vegetations extend down the valley to Kagbeni and the distant Nilgiri Peaks. The picturesque village of Tirigaon (2,815m/9,235ft) sits across the river on the west bank to mark the entrance to Upper Dolpo Valley. At Kagbeni we exit Upper Mustang and join the Annapurna Circuit route to Jomsom (2,720m/8,924ft).

The town of Jomsom, or ‘Dzongsam’ which means ‘New Fort’, is the administrative headquarter of the region and a prime commercial centre bustling with government officials, merchants and tourists rubbing shoulders with each other. With traders selling everything from beautifully woven textiles by traditional hand looms to yak tails for dusting your houses, Jomsom is a shopper’s paradise to find that rustic Tibetan souvenir or a mystifying lucky amulets and charms on your journey forward.  

Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner 

A breath-taking flight down the Kali Gandaki, between the towering Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges is a marvellous way to conclude our Mustang journey. One can’t help, but to be awestruck and inspired by the stupendous sizes of the Himalaya, while our twin-propellor aeroplane scampers like a bug. Landing at Pokhara, we board another aircraft to Kathmandu, for yet another fantastic mountain flight along the face of Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh and Langtang ranges. On arrival at Kathmandu, we will be transferred to our hotel for a well-earned afternoon at leisure.    

Overnight: Four-star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast

Today we have a full day at well-deserved leisure, with opportunities to explore shopping and souvenir hunting avenues, perhaps a city tour and sightseeing activities at the heritage sites, or just simply relaxing after the demanding trek. 

The Kathmandu valley locates UNESCO World Heritage Listed sites all within short distances of each other. You may want to start by exploring the city’s two most important spiritual sites, the Hindu pilgrimage complex of the holy Pashupatinath Temple and the serene stupa of Boudhanath, the most sacred Tibetan Buddhist shrine outside of Tibet. Alternatively, the Swayambhunath Buddhist Stupa sitting atop a small hill, has fondly earned the nickname of the Monkey Temple and offers spectacular view of the sprawling capital underneath. The museums and ancient royal courtyards at the three Durbar (Palace) Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, richly transport us to the golden age of Newa cultures and the valley’s rich history. 

Our evening is shared with a one last hurrah. A celebratory farewell dinner in honor of you and the many more adventures to come.  

Overnight: Four-star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner  

Here we bid our farewell and wish you a nice flight back home. Our office representative will pick you up at the hotel for your transport to the international airport.