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TM-MCT
Strenuous
17 days / 16 nights
14 days / 13 nights
5,160 meters/ 16,929 feet, Larkya La (pass), Day 13
Hotel, Lodges, Teahouses
from US$ 2000 per person
Quickly earning the status of “the best trek in Nepal” from experts and industry professionals, the Manaslu Circuit traverses across an off-the-beaten-path experience, with abundant wildlife, big Himalayan scenery, and undisturbed Buddhist settlements of Tibetan migrants. Starting from the sub-tropical jungle of lower elevations, the trek gets wilder and remote with every passing stage, through the Himalayan foothills and the high crossing of Larkya La at 5,160 meter/16,929 feet.
The Mansiri Himal range, better-known as the Manaslu massif, is lesser-known Himalayan sub-range in comparison to the popular Everest and Annapurna. Lying in north-central Nepal, the massif impressively boasts of three of the twenty highest mountains in the world with Manaslu the eighth highest at 8,163 meter/26,781 feet, Himalchuli the eighteen highest at 7,893 meter/25,895 feet and Ngadi Chuli the twentieth highest at 7,871 meter/25,823 feet. Enroute, we encounter stunning views of high peaks and ridges of several neighbouring sub-ranges, including the Ganesh Himal (Ganesh II, 7,118m/23,353ft), Shringi Himal (Shringi Peak, 7,161m/23,494ft), Pangbuche Himal (Saula Peak, 6,235m/20,456ft), Cheo Himal (Himlung, 7,126m/23,379ft), and Annapurna (Annapurna II, 7,937m/26,040ft).
What can we expect – trip overview and highlights.
Our trek begins at Gorkha, the historical principality of the Shah dynasty, from where King Prithvi Narayan Shah began the unification of several independent sovereigns into the Kingdom of Nepal that we know today. Setting off from the river hamlets of Seti Khola and Machha Khola, we cross and re-cross the Budhi Gandaki Khola (river) on numerous occasions and follow it upstream, sometimes on walkways along the valleys, often on rollercoaster trails waving up and down deep, forested gorges and ravines. Quintessential Nepali villages of Gurung, Ghale and mixed communities outline the lowlands with picturesque terraced fields and hill-side farms. While water channels cascading down from the mountain tops shower the trail with majestic waterfalls and peaceful streams, and are often sourced by small hydro plants that power the local village. And continuing on over the raging rapids of the Budhi Gandaki Khola, beautiful stretches of medieval forest and diverse wildlife overwhelms travellers to the pristine natural settings, and will evoke alluring nostalgias long after the trek is over. As the mountain trail kicks up to higher lands, we soon find ourselves in cut-off Tibetan Buddhist country decorated with fluttering prayer flags, mani stone walls, stupas, prayer wheels and elegant monasteries. Inhabited by dwellers from across-the-border Tibetan plateaus, these villages remain far removed from the outside world. The undisturbed Tibetan cultures, unique dialects, ancient lifestyles and traditions that still survive in this isolated and almost-unhabitable backcountry offers a one-of-a-kind cultural interest and experience. We enjoy few days of excellent acclimatisation, as well as suitable time to explore the captivating Tibetan villages of Sama Gaon and Samdo. The highest point of the trek at Larkya La (5,160m/16,929ft) arrives with a great sense of achievement, rewarding us with a stunning landscape of formidable peaks, glacier lakes and moraines of the greater Himalaya in all directions. On our descent to Dharapani, we enjoy eyeshot views of the spectacular peaks and ridges of Manaslu west-face, allowing us an easy study of the sheer rocky cliffs as they drop to untouched high-altitude forest said to be more than 1,000 years old, and continue further down to Dudh Khola gorges.
Somewhere along the trek, our journey to the wilderness of Manaslu feels less of a mountain traverse, and more of a cultural appreciation of the sturdy communities that survive in this unhabitable and isolated Himalayan corner. The Manaslu Circuit may have been named so for the round trip of the Mansiri Himal route, but it can easily apply to the extreme circle of elevations, topography, climates, athleticism and endurances we overcome in the whole trek. The sense of gratification and the immense admirations we gain for the people and cultures we meet along in our Manaslu Circuit trek, is perhaps the reason behind its aptly title “the best trek in Nepal”.
TM-MCT
17 days / 16 nights
14 days / 13 nights
Strenuous
5,160 meters/ 16,929 feet, Larkya La (pass), Day 13
Hotel, Lodges, Teahouses
Flying in or out of Kathmandu
valley is an amazing experience, very much so, on a clear day. As the plane
approaches from the southern west vector, the Himalaya can be seen far off in
the distant north. The approach beautifully navigates between low mountains,
passing over picturesque views of small villages, terrace fields and lush
forests, before the urban city and its intrigued network of roads and concrete
buildings sprawl below us.
As you make your way through the
formalities of the immigration and custom procedures, our Office Representative
will be awaiting at the airport and assists during our hotel check in.
Hopefully the long flight has not been very tiring for a pleasurable
evening.
Overnight: Four-star Hotel
Meals: Breakfast
Driving west from Kathmandu, we
follow the busy Prithvi Highway to countrysides adorned with unnoticed hamlets
and farms nestled on hillsides. As the road winds alongside the fast-flowing
Trishuli River, a popular waterway for rafters, it's hard not to notice the
continuous arrivals of soaring hills and luscious forests, perhaps a preview to
the vistas that awaits us on our trek. Our drive, soon crosses the Trishuli
River and leave the busy highway behind, climbing on picturesque foothills
decorated with rural communities and small towns, rich rice fields and
farmhouses of millet, willowy sal forest and chir pine jungle. Eventually dirt
road takes over, rocking our body to the rugged track, letting us know we are
nearing the mountains. And soon enough, panoramic views of the southern slopes
of Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Manaslu and Annapurna crown the northern skies,
enticing us in anticipation to the coming days. The once ancient trading
crossroads of Arughat Bazaar marks our entry into Gorkha and the Manaslu Trek,
but we continue our drive a little further up ahead arriving at Soti Khola
(700m/2,297ft), a small road-side village along the Budhi Gandaki River
corridor. After a long drive, an early dinner and bed should have us excited
for the days ahead.
Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Today, we are introduced to the
epic Manaslu trek. We begin with a gentle walk beyond Soti Khola passing small
settlements and easy lodges as we make our way up and down mystical sal forest,
terraces of rice paddies, stunning bridges and walkways above the raging Budhi
Gandaki River. Several tropical waterfalls beautifully shower our trail,
allowing us early opportunities to practice our photography skills before the
majestic mountains announce their appearances few days later. The rocky route
coasters up and down, clinging on to exposed cliff-side underneath dripping
cloud forests. Cautious approaches are required when traversing these exposed
bluffs as they are narrow path cut into the cliff, often wet and slippery with
little or no protections against the steep drops. Continuing along we arrive at
the quaint village of Lapubesi (884m/2,900ft), populated by Gurung and Ghale
people, where the trail undulates for a while before climbing a rocky outcrop
where locals pray to the river and hills for a safe passage. The valley soon
opens up as the trail drops to the river bed and to the drowning noises of the
raging rapids, offering us a brief blissful walk along the sandy shore before
climbing and hugging the cliff face again. A series of chortens (Buddhist
shrine) precedes our arrival at Machha Khola (‘Fish River’, 869m/2,821ft), a
rapidly expanding village with number of concentrated lodges.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
We continue upstream following
the gorge northward for yet another long day in the trail. Our foot trail waves
up and down as we gradually climb upward to the village of Khorlabari
(970m/3,182ft) and head into a narrow ravine bustling with lush vegetations and
wildlife. The banana trees found in these warm, humid steep-sided cliffs
attract squabbling armies of Assamese Macaque and colourful birds such as Kalij
Pheasants hunting for Himalayan Mouse-hare and Black-Lipped Pika. Arriving at
Tatopani (‘hot water’), offers an opportunity to take a break and perhaps enjoy
a light wash up in one of the hot water gushing sprouts. From here, we carry
onto another ridge through forested areas before a suspension bridge crossing
over the Budhi Gandaki leads us to a staircase climbing to Dobhan
(1,070m/3,510ft). Further along, our ascend continues as the wild rapids of
Budhi Gandaki thunder down below. The trail is again cut into the cliff
inviting careful footings away from the steep drops and stinging nettles that
line along. As more demanding climbs follow, keep a look out for any haphazard
areas and contacts, for there are beautiful Gurung villages nestled high above
the jungle that steals our concentration away from the trail. Throughout the
day, impressive views of the narrow valley, the primitive jungle, the hemmed-in
canyons, menacing rock faces, caravans of mules, cosy settlements and their
almost-medieval lifestyle call for photo stops and short breaks delaying our
arrival at Jagat (1,340m/4,396ft).
Jagat means ‘customs post’ in
Nepali, and was the ancient checkpoint for traders coming down Manaslu and Tsum
Valley. Now, the old settlement gates the entrance to the Manaslu Conservative
Area Project, a national park trust that regulates and promote ecotourism in
the area. A neat street lined with flagstones runs through the community, and a
Buddhist mani wall is positioned at the centre of the village, a hint of the
Tibetan Buddhist culture we will now find hereon in the region.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
The morning starts with a descend
down to Dudh Pokhari Khola (river) rushing in from the overhead gorges of
Baudha Himal (6,672m/21,889ft) by our west and confluence with the Budhi
Gandaki. A suspension bridge hanging just in front of a waterfall that
generates power for the local supply, precedes a quick descend to the river and
then to the high and low trail round a rocky bluff. The small village of
Salleri (1,353m/4,439ft) soon follows with her undulating trail amongst fields
sown with rice, millet or maize. The trail snakes up along the west side of
Budhi Gandaki with distracting views of Shringi Himal (7,161m/23,494ft) to the
north and Langju Himal (6,274m/20,584ft) to the east, before descending down
again to the spread-out Gurung village of Sirdibas (1,420m/4,658ft). The valley
opens up as we head toward Ghatte (mill) Khola, where collections of streams
are in use as watermills to grain crops. We follow the Budhi Gandaki upstream
and cross one of the longest suspensions bridge we meet in our traverse and
onto Philim (1,570m/5,150ft), a large Gurung village. The village houses a
secondary school supported by the Government of Japan, Chhyoling Sandu Buddhist
Gompa (monastery) and a custom post checking and levying taxes on goods
imported on caravans from Tibet. Yet another long day efforts us to continue
along the narrow gorges, passing superb waterfalls cascading down on both sides
of the banks. The ambiance of the walk continues to be impressive with
primitive forests shaded by the dark shadows of the towering overhanging
cliffs, while the trail rolls up and down, crossing and re-crossing varieties
of bridges. An information board on the main track announces the separation of
the trail heading east toward Tsum Valley, our course though, continues
northbound heading to Deng. Climbing along the banks of the river, underneath
deep canyons and misty dense vegetations, we pass through a bamboo forest and a
kani (stone arch) to arrive in Deng shortly thereafter.
Tucked in at an elevation of
1,570m/5,150ft, the sparsely populated village of Deng locates three teahouses,
all using solar powered electricity for dining areas only. Luckily, the Shringi
Himal to the north offers scintillating views during sunset and sunrise.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
By now we should be
well-acquainted with the rollercoaster that is the Manaslu trail, as familiar
sceneries and crossings greet us. Our footings are more confident and our
energy as vibrant as ever. Heading north-west, we leave the narrowest gorges
behind and the valley opens out to allow major peaks to appear between high
trees and cliffs. The ethnicity and the culture now have a heavier Tibetan
Buddhist influence with chhortens (stupas), prayer flags, mani stone walls and
gompas arriving more prominently throughout the trail. Paintings of Lord Buddha
and other significant Buddhist figures appear on carved stones along with
Buddhist mantras, fluttering colourful flags and prayer wheels in different
states of conditions. Before long, a beautifully decorated kani and an
elegantly carved mani wall welcomes us to the village of Ghap (2,250m/7,382ft).
The beauty of Manaslu continues to unfold and impress us as we make our way
through forests of pine, rhododendron and bamboo, all the while the immaculate
waters of Budi Gandaki constantly rage against the rocks and cliff faces,
sometimes corroding their way through but mostly diverting peacefully around. A
stone bridge naturally carved by the flow of the Budhi Gandaki leads us to a
forest of tall trees and wispy lichens, passing mani walls and small
waterfalls. Keep an eye out for monkeys, Himalayan Blue Sheeps and even Asian
Black Bears loitering in the distance cliffs and river beds away from human
intrusions. The charm of the forest continues on as we make a relentless steep
climb on makeshift steps and occasional exposed sections. Soon, after what
seems like the edge of the forest far away from any civilizations, the village
of Namrung (2,630m/8,628ft) arrives for our overnight stop.
The closely knitted houses of
Namrung mostly house dwellers from Tibetan origin who speak a unique
Sino-Tibetan dialect. As a treat for reaching all the way here, the village
shops a fancy bakery and a chance to savour familiar confectionaries.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
From here on till the day of
Larkya La crossing the excursions become shorter, but not easier, as we slowly
allow our body to acclimatise to the high elevations. The day again is an
opportunity to traverse further into Tibetan Buddhist country and experience
the rural culture of the small settlements and farming hamlets we pass on by.
To the east the Ganesh Himal massif can be seen behind the ridge as the trail
climbs northwest bound to the beautiful houses of Lihi village (2,920m/
9,580ft) where residents can be seen toiling hard on barley fields. About an
hour later, the village of Sho (2,880m/9,449ft) follows Lihi. The spread-out
rustic houses of the village add to the scenery while a small gompa allows
visitors to study old Buddhist paintings and seek blessings with a spin of a
big prayer wheel. Sho is where we have our first viewpoint of the twin peaks of
the mighty Manaslu (8,163m/26,781ft) and the neighbouring Naike Peak
(6,211m/20,377m). The trail now ascends on our way pass a kani and to the cosy
settlement of Lho (3,180m/10,433ft).
Sitting comfortably guarded by
the stunning Manaslu to the west and Saula Peak (6,235m/20,456ft) of the Kutang
Himal massif to the northeast, Lho is a picturesque colourful Buddhist
community. The Ribang Monastery towers over the village and has been the
foreground subject to that classic photo of ‘Manaslu with a gompa in front’.
Colourful stupas, impressive chortens, mani walls, gorgeous farms and grazing
herds of yak and dzo (a cross between yak and cow) further echoes the aura of
the village. On a clear day, the sunset and much impressive sunrise hours on
the twin peaks of Manaslu presents memorable images of the much-loved Himalayan
summit.
A short, late afternoon hike to
the Ribang Gompa is a suggested trip where visitors arrive at a large courtyard
overlooking Lho and Saula Peak. The monastery altars three main idols of
Chenresig, Sakyamuni Buddha and Guru Rinpoche, and paintings depicting the
ritual cycles of divinities and lamas.
Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
On bright mornings, Lho somehow
look vibrant, full of life, and with the staggering Manaslu at the backdrop
painting a lasting impression. We leave the alluring village behind taking the
trail between stone-walled fields and clusters of grazing domesticated herds.
To our west fleeting views of Peak 29 (Ngadi Chuli, 7,871m/25,823ft) appears in
between ridges and forest, and up ahead Manaslu and Naike Peak guides us like a
needle on a compass, constantly beaconing us to the hidden wonders of the
Himalaya. Enroute, we pass a rundown hydro plant, braided streams, serene
forests, before a steep climb levels out at Shyala (3,500m/11,483ft).
Surrounded by high mountains of Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli, Himal Chuli
(7,893m/25,895ft) and snow-capped peaks of the Pangbuche Massif to the east,
Shyala forces a rest-stop to admire the natural amphitheatre. The trail climbs
shortly, arriving at ravines carved by the glacial rivers from the Punggen
valley down the Manaslu massif. Dropping below to icy rivers and crossing over
a suspension bridge, we get a view of Sama Gaon in the distant valley floor –
like a miniscule footnote dwarfed and lost within the landscape of the
stupendous Himalayan wall. It is mostly downhill from here, occasionally
navigating across remains of glacial moraines, as the valley floor slowly line
up fields, stone walls and rural houses.
Sama Gaon (3,520m/11,548ft),
sometimes shortened to ‘Sama’ or called by its other name ‘Ryo’, is noticeably
the largest village in the region. It is the last stop for those on climbing
expeditions before their campsite at Manaslu Base Camp. As a result, the
village is well supplied to support expeditions, making it a good place to shop
for any goodies or gears that needs to be replaced or purchased.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
We can now feel the air getting
thinner as the altitude increases. Regular hydration plays vital role in
ensuring our body acclimatises and stay healthy in the high altitudes, and
helps to avoid our holiday from being marred by discomforts and uneasiness.
“Climb high, sleep low", “Take it slow" and “Drink plenty of
fluids" are the secret mantras many have successfully adopted in the
Himalaya.
Our guide will advise a suitable
walk to help us acclimatise. There are few side trips around Sama Gaon that are
excellent options to explore the high mountain terrains and the rich Buddhist
culture heavily influenced by the complex geography.
Pungyen Monastery, a 5–6-hour
roundtrip is a popular excursion and takes trekkers through photogenic chortens
and moraine trails to a serene gompa sitting at a foot of a cliff. Along the
trail we find enchanting views of the Punggen Glacier to the west, Shringi
Himal to the east and Saula Peak to the north. The monastery, in itself, is a
simple complex but the fantastic scenery makes the trip worthwhile.
For a strenuous day, a visit to
the Manaslu Base Camp (4,400m/14,435ft) demands a hike up a steep trail through
pine forests and juniper scrubs. Throughout the climb we get awe-inspiring view
of the unbelievable Manaslu Glacier, a formidable wall of ice and snow dropping
all the way from the summit to the Birendra Lake at the valley floor. The
excursion is quite demanding and it is understandable for casual trekkers to
turnback from a comfortable elevation – a job done; we’ve climbed high enough
for a well-deserved rest back at the valley. On our way down, we can visit the
hidden glacial Birendra Tal (lake, 3,637m/11,932ft) that often sees ice blocks
tumble down the Manaslu Glaciers with frightening insurgencies. Herds of
Himalayan Tahr, flock of Blood Pheasants and Tibetan Snow Cocks can be seen
frolicking around the freshwater lake.
For those looking ahead to a much
easier rest day, walking around Sama Gaon with a camera is an enlightening
cultural experience. Two storey houses that sees people living on the top floor
and the ground floor given to livestock for their warmth, are neatly fenced
with stone walls topped with layers of firewood. Village folks in Tibetan
dresses, out in the warmth of the sun, going about their daily life, while the
children play in the stream running through the village. Yaks and mules safely
tied to their post, whilst the chickens freely patrol the street. Mani walls,
painted Buddhas and chortens are plenty abound for photography.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
Before leaving Sama Gaon we visit the monastery sitting atop a small hillock, if we had not already made our visit earlier during the stay. The trail from Sama Gaon to Samdo is fairly stable once we drop down to the flats above the Budhi Gandaki River. Lined with several mani walls and juniper bushes, the easy walk travels across a wide valley that allows for panoramic views of the high mountains. To the east Samdo Peak (6,335m/20,784ft) and the neighbouring peaks of Pangbuche Himal massif borders the Tibetan plateaus, behind us the Himal Chuli (7,893m/25,895ft) is impressive, whilst high birch forests of Kermo Kharka and Kyonggma Kharka edges our trail. We wander over high plateaus and skirt around ancient moraines before crossing a wooden bridge to a short steep climb that arrives at an elevated plain. The last incline to the village is moderate but the effects of the altitude does catch up to us.
Samdo (3,875m/12,713ft) is one of
the most remote permanent settlements in Nepal, lying right at the Himalayan
borders with Tibet. Inhabited by migrants from Ro, a Tibetan region close to
the border, the village resides close to 40 houses made of dry-stone walls,
stone slab roofs and juniper mesh for protections against the cold mountain
winds. The medieval setting is heightening further by harden locals who spent
their days working in the fields, collecting firewood and watching their
livestock. A land and a culture, truly out of time, forgotten and isolated from
modernity.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
We have the luxury of few options
for our acclimatization in preparation for crossing the high pass, which can be
discussed with your guide.
The hill to the north-east of
Samdo offers an excellent half-day excursion with splendid views of the
village, the Budhi Ganadaki corridor down south-east and the surrounding
staggering peaks that seems to rise from the valley floor with intense
urgencies. The trail contours around easy slopes where we find yaks grazing by,
unimpressed to our climbing skills, whilst snowcocks and pheasants forage
between juniper bushes. All the while, Golden eagles and Himalayan vultures
swoop suddenly down to the valley, darting pass us, to an unsuspecting prey.
Couple of chortens trace the windy ridgeline and as we climb further up, the
sheer northern side of Samdo Peak dramatically intensifies to almost one’s
fingertips. To our west, we preview the trail to Larky La as it disappears
between razor-sharp ridges below the imposing Larkya Peak (6,249m/ 20,502ft).
The upper hillside is a prime habitat of blue sheep and Himalayan tahr, and can
be seen in large herds, nibbling peacefully on steep slopes before collectively
scurrying off from our intrusions.
The ancient salt trading route to
the Tibetan border passes of Gyala and Lajyang heads into the northern valley
passing bleak and barren countryside characteristic to the Tibetan highlands.
As we head further up north toward Gyala Peak (5,973m/19,596ft), the trail to
Lajyang or Rui La (4,998m/16,397ft) breaks off to the right while the trail to
Gyala Pass (5,375m/17,634ft) stays straight ahead. The excursions to these
border passes require a full day exercise and demand climbing up high
elevations, and not advised for those seeking a little rest.
For the above acclimatisation
walks, it is fair practice to gain a comfortable altitude and return back to
Samdo for an evening of rest. Or we can take an entire day resting and
exploring the medieval village, for an opportunity to experience a culture
forgotten by time do not arrive every other day. The secluded Samdo and the
once thriving seasonal Tibetan market of Larkya Bazaar, which is around 20
minutes to the north, makes for an insightful day studying the harden mountain
life untouched by modern amenities. Tibetan traders once exchanged salt, wool
and meat for barley, rice and wood with the locals from the Budhi Gandaki
valley at Larkya Bazaar before the status of Tibet was changed and border
movements were restricted. Now the remains of the seasonal trading post shed
some lights on the difficult journeys undertaken by the Himalayan dwellers to
sustain lives in this unhabitable highlands.
Overnight: Lodge/Teahouse
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Even though we enjoy a short hike
today, the altitude and few steep demands should slow our pace. Not attacking
the trail or over-breathing should be the mantra that takes us over the pass
tomorrow, and it helps to practice them today. Plus, the almost-artic landscape
our route traverse across should demand regular viewing breaks and photo
stops.
After breakfast, we head toward
Larkya Bazaar and turn west on a deceptive climb to a ridge that overlooks the
north face of Naike Peak, the piercing shires of Manaslu North and the daunting
Syacha Glacier in between, extending from the southwest. Our scenic gazes are
occasionally broken by loose footings on inclined slopes and icy trappings frozen
by small streams along the trail, demanding our utmost attentions. The terrain
is characterised by thorny berberis bushes, juniper shrubs and even Edelweiss
flowers, undisturbed by the artic conditions. Up ahead, we can now observe the
Larkya Glacier as the trail winds up and down over steep sections across couple
of massive sandstone ravines. Nearing the glacier, the climb gets relatively
steep and arrives at the collection of huts and tents of Dharamshala (means
pilgrims’ rest house).
There are many Dharamshala, an
overnight rest site, at the foot of various passes across the Himalaya - this
one is singled out as Larkya Phedi (bottom of Larkya). Here, the accommodations
are basic with rooms furnished by mattresses only, and a simple menu with expensive
prices. Undoubtably, at this altitude, and wedged deep in the middle of the
Himalaya, a roof and a hot meal is a luxury.
The afternoon can be spent
acclimatising, relaxing or watching venturesome blue sheep rummaging for
edibles around the camp area.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
Our day starts pre-dawn with
headlamps illuminating our path up the rise above Larkya Phedi. The pass
generally sees icy winds blowing down from the mountains around mid-mornings,
and along with the challenging high pass and a long descend to the lower
meadows, it is desirable to have an early start. With our pre-hike checklist
done for our day pack – enough drinks, enough warm layers, enough food/snacks -
we climb slowly with an easy pace, appreciating the dauting landscape around
us. The trail is easy to follow as it sweeps along a barren hill and over a
vast icy lake below, before the snow-capped peaks and glaciers appear before
us. Before long, we find ourselves navigating across moraines, small frozen
lakes and into the ablation valley of the north side of the Larkya Glacier with
amazing views of Larkya Peak and Cho Danda. The endless rock-fields slowly make
a steep trajectory to a path marked with fluttering prayer flags and to the
summit cairn (5,160m/16,929ft).
There are majestic panoramic
views of the greater Himalaya at the top. To the east Pangbuche Himal borders
Tibet, Larkya Peak is above to our southeast, Annapurna II (7,937m/26,040ft)
and Kang Guru (6,981m/22,903ft) to the west, and up north Himlung (Nemjung,
7,126m/23,379ft) and Cheo Himal (6,812m/22,349ft).
The descent begins on a steep
slope on an often-icy route confounded by high winds, leaving no time to be
complacent or enjoy the mountain arcs of the Nar-Phu valley stretched out
before us. The dizzy trail drops down moraines, icy streams and loose slopes,
extracting cautious approach from our, now exhausted legs. Soon, juniper bushes
shape the landscape, followed by grassy pasture of Dangboche Kharka as
Himalayan crows, ravens and snowcocks welcome us back to the land of
vegetations.
Bhimthang (3,590m/11,778ft) means
‘Plain of sands’ and boasted a salt-depot that attracted traders from Samdo and
from the Manang valleys in the Annapurna. Sitting right under the lap of
Manaslu, the meadow was historically used as an encampment site or as an animal
shelter by Tibetan traders during cold and impassable winters.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
On a clear sky, the early morning
hours in Bhimthang are astoundingly breath-taking and unforgettable as Manaslu
now towering to our east, Phungi Himal (6,538m/21,450ft) to the south, Himlung
and Cheo Himal in the north are hit with soft golden hues while Bhimthang
remains asleep in the dark, enveloped by the mighty wall of the Manaslu massif.
This morning feels a little different, a little celebratory and with jubilant
footsteps we head south down the meadows to a wooden bridge over the emerging
Dudh Khola (milk river) as it converges from the snouts of Salphudanda, Ponkar
and Keechakyu Khola glaciers. The moraines next to the end of the bridge offer
excellent viewpoint of Himlung, Cheo Himal and the three glaciers merging to
our north. Pungi Himal is to our southeast, with the Manaslu and Larkya massif
dominating the east, almost entirely. The awe-inspiring mountains are soon
forgotten as we enter the most beautiful stretches of forest on the whole trek.
Primitive forest of rhododendron, spruce, oak, cedar, juniper and birch show
off diverse collection of flora from wild orchids to strawberries, with rich
crews of singing birds and colourful butterflies dancing to willowy sunlight.
Without much surprise, today we will be wrestling more with our cameras than with
our athleticism, trying to capture the right exposures and balances between the
contrasting glaring snowy summits and the shaded dense forest. The trail
continues on through the tranquil forest, climbing over a short landslip area
and arriving at the Dudh Khola riverbed of Kharche (2700m/ 8,858ft) before
walking up through a narrow valley to the terraced fields atop the small pass.
More fields and small settlements greet us down back to civilization and to
Tilije (2300m/7,545ft) for our overnight stop.
Tilije has a mixed ethnic
population of Ghale, Gurung, Chhetri and Tibetans, who have influenced the mix
culture and architecture of the village. Away from the remoteness of Manaslu,
the lodges at this small Annapurna village offers comfort and a good sleep,
perhaps in relief to the completion of the circuit.
Overnight:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and
Dinner
We head down to the bridge over
Dudh Khola, pass fields and mani walls before joining a wide dirt road. It will
be hard not to notice the ridges of Lamjung Himal (6,983m/22,910ft) over the
skyline as our easy walk makes one final ascend and heads down to cross the
Dudh Khola one last time, to the check post at Thonje. Here, we officially
leave the Manaslu Conservation Area and enter the Annapurna Conservation Area.
Following a beautiful stupa over the Marsyangdi River we cross a suspension
bridge into Dharapani (1,963m/6,440ft) and join the main Annapurna Circuit
trail. The ride down to Besisahar will be bumpy, dusty and thrilling as the
jeep hugs the mountain road over the sweeping Marsyangdi River.
Though Kathmandu is only around
176 km away, the winding-weaving and maze-like terrain heaves the drive to long
hours. We leave the Himalaya behind as we head along the Besisahar-Dumre
Highway with our rear-view window looking at the eastern ridges of Annapurna
massif with Lamjung Himal, Annapurna II, Annapurna IV and the familiar Manaslu
range. The road follows the Marsyangdi Khola and the beautiful stretches of
farmlands and fields the river waters, to Dumre Bazaar where we re-join Prithvi
Highway. Thirty odd kilometres later the river and the road converge with
Trishuli River where we turn east toward Kathmandu. Looking out the window and
watching one steep mid-hill follow another vertical spear, it is not hard to
understand why road constructions and further development projects are an
arduous task in this jagged region. Up the highway, at Benighat, our old
companion Budhi Gandaki converges with Trishuli river and sees us off as we say
our goodbyes to Manaslu.
Overnight: Four-starHotel
Meals: Breakfast
Today we reserve ourselves a day
of well-deserved leisure opportunities of some shopping and souvenir hunting, a
city tour and sightseeing activities at the heritage sites, or just simply
relaxing after the demanding trek.
The Kathmandu valley locates heritage sites all within short distances of each other. The Hindu pilgrimage complex of the holy Pashupatinath Temple or the serene Buddhist stupas of Bodhanath and Swayambhunath are few of the religious sites that many would like to visit. The museums and ancient royal courtyards at the three Durbar (Palace) Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, richly transport us to the golden age of Newa cultures.
Our evening is shared with a one
last hurrah. A celebratory farewell dinner in honor of you and the many more
adventures to come.
Overnight: Four-star Hotel
Meals: Breakfast and Dinner
Here we bid our farewell and wish
you a nice flight back home. Our office representative will pick you up at the
hotel for your transport to the international airport.
from US$ 2000 per person
SERVICES INCLUDED
SERVICES INCLUDED
SERVICES NOT INCLUDED
HOW FIT DO I NEED TO BE TO DO THE MANASLU CIRCUIT TREK
“Do I need to get my body ultra-fit and ready for higher altitudes before joining the trek?”
No. This is trekking, it is
supposed to be an easy walk on familiar pace, while enjoying the best of nature
- a total de-stressing experience that in turn results to a toned, healthy and
detoxed trekker. But of course, it pays to be fit and healthy, enough to be
able to enjoy walking in the Himalaya.
Your training routine does not need to be hard-core, or one fit for mountaineering expeditions or to run a cross-fit marathon. Simply, the best preparation for a multi-day trek is to practice walking for multiple days. If you are able to hike up small hills and even mountains, do visit them often and built up your legs, shoulders and even back muscles. These practice hikes should also help you to test out your gears and to find out what and how much you would like to carry on your daypack. However, if you are unable to find time for daily walks and hikes, there are number of gym machines and light exercises that should help you to build your strength, balance and stability. Any cardiovascular activities such as body pumps, Pilates and aerobics that builds up your heart rate and lungs are all excellent preparations for high altitude treks. Do take advices from medical and physical experts before drawing up your training routines.
The early days of the Manaslu Circuit begins with long walks in the lower river valleys, offering fantastic opportunities to get timely exercise and to test your footings before the steep hills and mountain trails arrive. Remember to train for both the uphill and downhill sections, as the two requires different sets of strength and balances. The trek will, more than enough time, demand strenuous efforts and climbs over gorges, hills and yes, the high crossing at Larkya La, but the trail in itself will not require any special mountaineering or rock-climbing skills and equipment.
As long as you stick to the old ‘altitude sickness prevention’ mantra of ‘climbing slowly at a comfortable pace, enough rest and drinking lots of fluid (of course, not alcohol)’, your body should relatively acclimatise to the thin Himalayan air. Our program offers one extra day each at Sama Gaon (3,520m/11,548ft) and Samdo (3,875m/12,713ft) to help you acclimatise and prepare for the high crossing. Learn more about ‘How to avoid altitude sickness?’ here. It is vital that you share any discomfort or health issues you encounter during the trek with your guide, so that you can be assessed and monitored as the trek progresses.
In conclusion, the general rule of thumb is to take it easy. It is a walking holiday with plenty of stoppages for photo calls and cultural interest, so one does not necessarily need to overdo their training regimes. Train appropriately enough to avoid any serious health issues or injuries, and enough to enjoy a gratifying week or two of trekking in the majestic Himalaya.
WHEN TO TREK TO THE MANASLU REGION
Sandwiched between two popular trekking regions of Annapurna and Langtang, Manaslu lies in the north central region of Nepal. Like the rest of the country, the region enjoys a cycle of four distinct seasons annually – short spring, monsoon summers, moderate autumns and cold winters. Spring arrives in March and April bringing stable weather and preferrable temperatures, though the skies might stay little cloudier. With stretches of colourful blooming rhododendron forest in the lower reaches of Deng and Shyala, spring is easily the popular period and attracts a sizeable crowd of visitors to the region. Around early May, the last of the rhododendron blooms can be seen, but warm and humid air begins to move in from the Indian Ocean and settles as dense fog in the Himalaya obscuring the mountain views. Late May sees the start of monsoonal climate with long rainy summer till mid-September. The trails are quite with no trekkers around, however travelling along steep gorges and narrow valleys of the Budhi Gandaki River do possess threats of sudden flooding and landslides, and utmost precautions need to be taken. The summer monsoon leaves behind a green and lush countryside which stays through autumn and early winter months. With dry and cold air coming down from Tibet the weather stays clear, crisp and stable, granting another busy spell in Manaslu. Mid-December sees high-altitude villagers heading down toward warmer lowlands, before the late winter storms bring large amounts of snow to the region, blocking the trail and often burying teahouses. Soon, warm air from Indian Ocean arrives in March raising the temperature and condenses enough to begin the monsoon cycle again, in June.
It is possible to travel to Manaslu throughout much of the year. Spring (March–April) and autumn (October–November) are the popular periods that see busy trail and fully occupied teahouses, so do book in advance. The summer monsoon has less crowded trail but brings with it travel disruptions, cloudy weathers and soggy experiences. However, snow can block Larkya La at any time of the year, crossing the pass can be icy and impassable without using ropes, crampons and mountaineering skills. Casual trekkers either delay the crossing till better conditions are available or return back from Samdo or Sama Gaon.
ACCOMODATIONS ON THE MANASLU CIRCUIT TREK
With the recent gush in popularity of Manaslu, the region has seen surges in lodges and teahouses along the circuit. Yet still, the busy seasons see fully occupied accommodations, and call for advance bookings. The simple lodges are run by local families and are relatively basic with small adequate rooms furnished with little more than twin bench-beds, thin mattress, blanket and a pillow. So, your sleeping kit (3 season is normally enough) will probably see an early use. While the rooms remain unheated, a large stove, burnt with wood or cattle dung, in the central communal areas provides heat for a snuggly atmosphere. Each floor shares a common bathroom and toilet, with running cold water and squat toilets, though few lodges have installed sit-down flush toilets. The remote lodges are powered with solar energy; hence electricity consumptions are limited and restricted to certain areas. However, charging facilities and hot water, where available are charged extra. Hot showers are powered by gas, and is advised to ask for assistance from the lodge staff before operating them. Internet, phones and access to the outside world along the remote trail is less likely or can be days apart. Appropriately, the higher we go into the mountains more basic the lodges are.
WORRIED ABOUT GETTING HUNGRY ON YOUR TREK
A worked-up appetite from long hours of trekking is now easily sated by the excellent mixtures of local Nepali food and western recipes offered by the lodges. Hungry trekkers will find everything from pastas to burgers and beers in the lodges along the route. Words of advices, the lodges get quite busy at meal times, so do place your meal order as soon as you can as it is strictly ‘first-come-first-served'. And the western-style options may not be what you would expect back home. Many trekkers find the authentic Nepali set of ‘dal-bhat’, a combination of dal (lentil soup), bhat (rice), vegetable curry and pickle cooked with mostly local grown eatables and home-made ingredients, nutritious and sufficient.
PACKING LIST FOR MANASLU CIRCUIT TREK
We begin our Manaslu journey in the foothills of the Himalaya, about 700m/2,300ft, with relatively warm and humid tropical climate, before ascending to dizzying heights, over 5,000m/ 16,000ft, where cold and artic conditions test both our endurances and our clothing. Normal trekking clothes that are comfortable to move around in the mountains and should keep us warm, dry and protected from the sun/ rain/snow/wind are the basic idea of the kit we need, along with some warm layers, books, camera and music for the evenings. Think of protective layers that can be easily carried in the daypack and dressed up or down to your likings as per the conditions. And of course, do not forget to bring in one healthy dose of what Sir John Hunt, the leader of the successful 1953 British Everest Expedition, would call ‘the Excelsior Spirit’. As a matter of fact, packing for a travel, in itself, can be an adventure or a mis-adventure.
Well, let’s keep them simple and basic. All we need are clothing that will keep us warm, dry, protected from the sun/rain/wind, and are comfortable to move in the mountains, a daypack and one healthy adventurous spirit. Below, we present you a basic comprehensive packing list suitable for any trek in Nepal.
BAGS - A large Duffle bag/Rucksack (~80L) for a porter to carry. The porters have a fixed weight that they can carry of 15kgs (33lb). A comfortable Medium Daypack (~40L) you will be carrying.
SHELL CLOTHING - Top and bottoms shell clothing are the best and lightest to keep off those Himalayan wind/rain.
INSULATION - Warm layered system to keep you warm- body, hands & head.
BASELAYER – Adding thin layers when conditions get cold, and stripping down when it gets hot is the way to go, plus there are light, dries quickly and wick away sweats.
FEET – Comfortable and broken-in, waterproof hiking boots that support your ankles over rough terrain. Lighter footwear/sandals (if it works for you) to change into in the evenings.
SLEEPING - Warm sleeping bag & Bedroll to get a good night's sleep at the lodges & camps.
EATING/DRINKING - Water bottles/Hydration pack & your favourite snacks for home during the day.
WASHING & MEDICAL - To allow you to wash and maybe stave off a headache or blisters.
ELECTRONIC DEVICES – Your smartphone to stay connected where you can or even your favourite adventure camera. Make sure you have the correct supply voltages and electronic plugs that are compatible in Nepal for your chargers. Nepal operates on 230V standard voltage and frequency of 50Hz, with most lodges using sockets for Type C, Type M or Type D plugs.
The trails, now a days, can be a
bit of a fashion runway with people sporting the latest and the most expensive
outdoor trends. You don’t have to go overboard. It is also ok to express your
own personal styles and expressions, but do find a healthy balance between
comfortable and durable.
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